Thursday, February 28, 2008

Oh, I can't wait to go shopping!

The shopping bug has hit me! I am so excited about shopping in Istanbul, especially when it comes to costumes and belly dance attire. I found this awesome Web site today. The woman made a google map of places that you need to check out for costumes in Istanbul. It's in German, but really cool.



Größere Kartenansicht

Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Still on the subject of food...

Pam sent me this today. Looks wonderful. I must try a recipe soon! Adam will be my guinea pig.

http://www.turkishcookbook.com/

Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Update on veggie food

From Turkishdancer on Bhuz:
"In Turkey, you can find vegeterian dishes in any restaurant, just make sure you ask if there is any meat in the vegetable dishes. It is very common that you eat dishes has no meat cold, and dishes with meat hot...we make a lot of stew type of dishes with meat. I dont eat meat myself,my favs are green beans, mix veggie stews, rice, lentil soup, yogurt soup, salads, eggplant dishes with no meat, dolma (any type).I would also visit some Palaces, and museums if you have time, and dont forget the Bosphourus ferry boat tour to the Islands. Have fun!!!and bargain!!!"

I need to look up dolma...

Monday, February 25, 2008

Crossing the bridge: The sound of Istanbul

So Adam and I watched the cheesiest movie about the music of Istanbul. I decided to fill my Netflix queue with travel videos and this little gem made it first.

First of all, I wanted to see some belly dancers. I mean there's one on the cover and I can hardly think of Turkish music without thinking belly dance. No luck.

So this film is a documentary about a German rocker dude who becomes obsessed with Turkish music. He is hilarious, but not on purpose. He has this long goatee, he smokes like a fiend, has nasty teeth and best of all, wears super-tight tank tops.

He goes to different music venues searching for all of the genres. He highlights rock, hip-hop, Romany, Kurdish and many other forms of music. There are some great scenes.

What struck me the most was just how big Istanbul really is. I guess I didn't take time to fully understand the immensity of the city. I mean I knew it was large, and I've been to huge cities before. Heck, I even studied the google map a few times. But seeing it on the big screen (Adam's 42 inch HDTV) gave me a new perspective. New pictures for my mind to run through when I day dream of my trip.

Then, I felt bad for cheating. Yes, it felt like cheating to see so much of a city on TV that you are planning to explore in real life. I mean if I keep watching these DVDs will it ruin my trip? Will it give away Istanbul's secrets? It's good to be prepared, but with out spoiling it.

I also bought my first travel book last weekend. It really cool because they break the city into five sections and each section is a map marked with points of interest. It's lightweight and compact. It's called the Knopf Mapguides to Istanbul: The city in section-by-section maps. My only concern is that it was published in 2003. Kinda old for a travel guide.

I still want to get another travel guide with more meat. I almost bought two today. I thought maybe that was too much. Perhaps another spoiler. I think I'll go with Rick Steves. He's always the best. I've heard nothing but good review about that one. There is also the Time Out Guide to Istanbul, which also has the highest ratings. Maybe I will get both. I mean what's another $30?

Pamukkale: Cotton Castle


Adam found this today. I hope we can try to go on one of his days off. He only has a couple. Ah, it looks so awesome. It seems pretty far from Istanbul, due south.

"Pamukkale is one of the most extraordinary natural wonders in Turkey. Deriving from springs in a cliff almost 200m high overlooking the plain, calcite-laden waters have created at Pamukkale (Cotton Palace) an unreal landscape, made up of mineral forests, petrified waterfalls and a series of terraced basins. At the end of the 2nd century B.C. the dynasty of the Attalids, the kings of Pergamon, established the thermal spa of Hierapolis. The ruins of the baths, temples and other Greek monuments can be seen at the site."

http://www.swisseduc.ch/stromboli/perm/turkey/pamukkale-en.html

Thursday, February 21, 2008

Found some cool stuff

I might be able to take some dance classes. Woo hoo! Although it is sooo pricey. A dance class cost $65 Euro which is $95! Here is the link: http://www.bazaarturkey.com/tours/Belly_dance_lesson.html

Here is another cool Web site although the owner is in some dire need of Web site design classes: http://www.turkumusic.com/travel.htm

Here is a cool tip:
"We are loving the akbil thing! Akbil is a little metal button on a tab that fits well on a key chain. It's a pass that you can load up which gets you into all the public transport- bus, ferry, tram, tunel, etc. You get a 10% discount over tokens as well as not having to spend the time in the ticket lines. You pay 6 lira for the thing, then load it up at machines or ticket windows. Keep your receipt when you buy it, because it's only a deposit, which you can get back when you leave Istanbul. We only have one and we scan it twice to get us both in. It will also get you some transfers free. It does not work in Ankara, or outside Istanbul."

I also am getting a travel video via Netflix today. I hope Adam and I can watch it this weekend. I'll post a review. Oh and we need to get to the bookstore to get our travel books!

Vegetarian food

I am nervous about whether or not the don't ask don't tell policy will go into full affect in Turkey regarding my vegetarianism. I am a strict vegetarian. I eat no flesh, but I do eat eggs and dairy. What will I eat? Will I have to eat at least a little seafood or chicken to get by? Ew.

When I travel on a budget, I usually eat only one meal out. Breakfast and lunch consists of something from the grocery store or market. I am perfectly happy going to a park and eating a picinic of bread and cheese, fruit and water. Hopefully I can do this in Istanbul.

I decided to do some research on the subject. Here's what I found:
Badehane (Bade's House) in the Beyoglu area
Bade runs her restaurant the same way as she runs her house: it's always open, everyone is welcome and there's always divine food on the table. Dine on sumptuous grilled eggplant stuffed with vegetables, soya meat and garlic, delicious fried vegetable patties and a delectable selection of mushroom and chicken dishes; the crispy summer salads are excellent and the chef's special (for either lunch or dinner) is also recommended. A further range of rather adventurous, exotic culinary experiments also grace the crockery. Try to visit on a Sunday when a guest chef cooks specials for a full house. This is a cheap and cheerful place to eat.

Parsifal also in the Beyoglu area
Parsifal has been keeping Istanbul's bourgeoisie well fed for the last three years with such delicacies as leek and soya burgers, spinach pie and broccoli au gratin. Helped along with a little French influence in the decor and design, this place is very popular with the locals. It fills up quickly most nights, although you'll rarely need to make a reservation. However, if you have to wait a few minutes for a table then it must be good, right? Try the mushroom soup and check the blackboard for the daily special. The best dessert in the house is Banana Crêpes.

Nature and Peace also in the Beyoglu area
Bunches of dried herbs and vegetables dotted around the walls make this long oblong room reminiscent of a warm and cozy country kitchen. Make sure you check out the blackboard specials before looking at the menu as it's often cheaper to order the daily special - consisting of soup, salad and a main meal - than to order everything separately. Green lentil patties, the NP house salad, and falafel should all be on the hit list of things to try. The cheesecake is definitely the best you'll find in Istanbul, and the pumpkin pie is also good in season.

Hercai in Kadikoy area
Hercai occupies the whole of a gorgeous nineteenth-century three-storey house. Admire original cinema posters from socially conscious films of the past (such as Land and Freedom by Ken Loach, Before the Rain, Children of the Revolution and Protest) while you munch on delicious Imambayildi (literally meaning 'the imam loved it') - a dish made from aubergines cooked gently in olive oil and served cold. The Manti (Turkish ravioli) and spinach quiche are good here too. This place is good value for money, with great service and a peaceful atmosphere - you won't regret your forage into the delightful back streets of Kadiköy!

La Calle in Beyoglu area
Tucked away in the cobbled backstreets of bohemian Tünel, this tiny restaurant is run by the fun young crowd for the fun young crowd. It is located in an area teeming with eccentric local artists and wannabe intellectuals, and is popular for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Tiny red tables are set up outside in the street during the summer. The menu changes regularly. Perusing it you will find a few well-prepared vegetarian dishes freshly made each day. There are also vegetable soups, cold and hot vegetable starters and mains and divine hot chocolate brownieS for dessert. The emphasis here is on fresh and nutritious food.

---I found these on Yahoo! Travel. I didn't realize Yahoo! has such a good travel site. I was able to create a "trip" called Istanbul so that I can add these restaurants to it. I found them by searching for "vegetarian restaurants Istanbul." I love the Web.

My concern with the five restaurants above is that they are probably not authentic Turkish. Most likely more that fancy fusion stuff for upper class. Of course price is an issue too. I don't know how recent the information is, but it looks like Hercai and La Calle are the cheapest.

I still need to do more research on buying food in markets and at stores. More to come on food! I am hungry...off to lunch!

Friday, February 15, 2008

Lunch with a friend and lots of notes

Today I had lunch with a friend of mine who went to Istanbul a couple of months ago. She is also a belly dancer, so she had some really great tips.

Here are the most important things I learned:

1) Get a driver from the hotel to pick you up at the airport. Taxi drivers suck and they will rip you off. They probably won't even know where the hotel is. Taxi rates also double at night. She said that taxi drivers don't know where places are, but they know landmarks and neighborhoods. They will drop you off in the general area.

2) It's expensive. Most people use Euro, which sucks for me because the Turkish Lira has a better exchange rate. Bring a calculator.


3) MUST GO to the Turkish bath, Cemberlitas Bath.

4) Write down the name of where you are going on a card and ask people for help. If they don't speak English, they'll recognize the name and point you in the right direction. You may have to do this several times before you find where you are going. Most importantly, carry around your hotel's card and memorize the closests/biggest landmark.

5) Go to Istiklal Caddessi for modern food, shopping and costume makers. Probably my best bet for vegetarian food.

6) Beware of pick pockets and wear a money belt. The trains and subway are crammed and people will try to scam you. On the plus side, public transportation is clean.

7) Outside of the Grand Bazaar is an area to buy beads and semi-precious stones. Must keep in mind for my jewelry. Also, if I want to buy precious metal I need to know the daily rate and make sure they weigh it.

8) The belly dance shows are good, but expensive and often with mediocre dancing and bad food. She said they all serve the same meal. She also said that the dancers all do raqs sharqi instead of Turkish-style. She suggested getting the hotel to book, so you don't get ripped off. GAR and Caravanserai seem like the best bets.

9) Go to the Aratsu Market. Not very well-known.

10) Of course, the Blue Mosque and some palace that I forgot to write the name of.

Anyway, I'm sure I will find out more from my lovely resource. She's going to send me cards of places to go, as well as help me figure out the public transportation system. She'll go over the map with me and mark the places I need to get off at. :)

I am bummed that things will be more expensive over there. I was hoping that I could use Lira which is less valuable than the dollar. That way I would get everything at about 20 percent off. But if I have to use Euro then that makes everything TWICE as expensive. I really need to brainstorm more ways to come up with money for the trip.

It looks like buying a nice costume is out of the question as they will run $550 and above. Although she also says they are worth it and much better than Egyptian costumes. I just bought a brand-new costume and I can't really justify buying another one.

It also sounds like people are very nice, yet willing to scam you or get their "commission." I must practice my bargaining and my stern look. Being from the south, that might be hard. Oh well, we'll see how it goes. I am still very excited!!!


Photos by Audra Evans. Used with permission.

Thursday, February 14, 2008

I could stare at maps all day

The continent of Europe is on the left and the continent of Asia is on the right. I'll be on European soil during my trip...But the real question is: Is Turkey in the middle east? Discuss
.

View Larger Map

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Thanks to Amira from Bhuz for this one

"Sulthanamet is the oldest and the most historical part of town (but not the fanciest) and is best suited for visiting during the day. It gets dark at approx 18hr30 and shops close around 19hr00. At night it is a good idea to eat and go out in the Ortakoy, Bebek, Taxim and Beyoglu, Kumpapi areas.

However there is a great and famous Kebab restaurant in Eminonu called: Hamdi Restaurant. Very Turkish and try to make a reservation at the top floor as they have a glass roof and you can look over the old city and the bosporus.

Easiest to use taxi's at night. Make sure the taxi driver switches on the taximeter unless you are happy to fix a price and bargain about the price some don't bargain and just say: taximeter. In that case I recommend putting the map of Istanbul on your lap, to pretend you know where your are going. Like this the driver should be less tempted to take you around the block once too many.

On Sunday go to Ortakoy for the Sunday market with lots of silver jewellery, scarves, silks, bags and art.

Uptown you will find the Istiklal Caddesi in Beyoglu and to Taxim square if you want to do some serious shopping. Good for some lovely lunch spots as well. A lot of Embassy's and Consulates are on Istiklal Caddesi (hope you will not need it). Shops in this area stay open until 21hr00. If you can not get enough of the shops, you can go on to the Ak Merkez and MetroCity malls, they stay open until 22hr00.

MUST GO is İstinye Park Alışveriş Merkezi - Istyine Park Shopping mall - Istinye Park shopping mall is a unique urban lifestyle environment situated on a natural topographical “amphitheater” of residential neighborhoods. Above, a grand circular arrival plaza sits between an open-air lifestyle center and a glass-roofed indoor retail area. With 300 shops and constructed at an expense of $250 million. The new shopping mall offers famous brands like Dolce & Gabbana, Dior, Prada, and Fendi to the Turkish consumer domestically for the first time.

Other shopping malls: METROCITY, Kanyon Levent, Cevahir Alışveriş Merkezi, Akmerkez

To get a good impression of the city is a Bosporus cruise, please refer to Turkey Travel Planner for all the different possibilities.

If you would like to go to a hammam, you can try
- Çemberlitas Hamami
http://www.cemberlitashamami.com/
Vezirhan Caddesi 8
+90 212 522 7974
open from 6hr00 - 00hr00
€ 15 all in for 1,5 hr

- Tarihi Galatasaray Hamami
Turnacibasi Sokak 24
+90 212 252 4242

As you will read anywhere, Istanbul is THE place where "east meets west", so you will find lots of traditional Turkish restaurants and cafés but also many hip & trendy places (restaurants, bars & clubs), many with great views of the Bosporus.

* Leb-i derya (a hip restaurant with a terrace on two levels which is covered this time of year, great views over the city, also a good idea for lunch)

* Anjelique and Vogue, both restaurants of the Istanbul Doors Group.

* Kizkulesi (restaurant on a tiny island in the Bosporus)

* Safran (modern turkish)

*Gulluoglu in KARAKOY - BEST BOREK AND BAKLAVA IN ISTANBUL SINCE 1949 (only Turks know this address)

*SET BALIK LOKANTASI (famous for fish and very very nice)

*Pera Palas
'Created by the people who founded the Orient Express, who could not find a suitable hotel for their guests once they arrived at the end of their journey. Frequented by Agatha Christie who, during her stay here, wrote "Murder on the Orient Express", Great Garbo and Mata Hari, and more than once Atatürk himself. It's worth having a coffee at the patisserie or a drink at the bar to take in the hotel's atmosphere.'

*Orient House and Kervansaray (for an evening of traditional Turkish food and entertainment, complete with music, bellydancers and all the expected folklore) "

The planning stage

Hello folks,
I'm starting this blog to prepare for my trip to Istanbul, Turkey. Here I'll post tips, information and ramblings about how excited I am. Once I am over there I hope to update often with pictures, factoids, and adventures. And after the trip is over, who knows what this blog will become, but who cares?

Here are the basics:
I leave on Tuesday, April 1 and return on Tuesday, April 8. A full week!
I am not flying with A, but I am going to meet him there.
I can't wait!