Our last day in Istanbul consisted of sleeping in deliciously late and more rain, of course. We hurried through breakfast and made our way into town...this time on foot...no shuttle needed! Yay!
In a previous post I told you that we changed hotels, so I wanted to tell you a little bit more about it. It is called Sarniç, the Turkish word for cistern, because it was built on one. Anyway our room was tiny with a little window that looks inside a shaft of some sort. The A/C was broken and it was so hot and stuffy in there. We also smelled cigarette smoke wafting in from other rooms. Gross. Oh and they were doing construction next door and the sound of demo was giving me a headache.
Other than that it was nice though, the staff was great, the room was clean and breakfast was delicious. Breakfast was on the terrace floor, but the terrace was closed due to bad weather. Oh well. We could still see the Bosphorus and the Blue Mosque up there. There is another mosque nearby and we could hear the blasting call to prayer a few times a day.
Back to our day...we were going to take the Bosphorus cruise but the weather was so bad that it would've been terrible. Plus, we missed the ferry due to oversleeping so we'd have to find a private tour. We walked around the neighborhood in Sutlanhamet, farther away from the hustle and bustle of tourists. We did some more shopping of course, and found some really quaint streets. I will post images when I get them from Adam.
It started raining hard so we stopped to eat in another tourist-type restaurant. The room had a green tinge to it and there were smokers galore. I hate smelling smoke when I am eating. Anyway, the food was good. I had a plate of appetizers and Adam had fried meatballs. We also tried Raiki which is the alcoholic beverage of Turkey. It is like Ouzo. Because it is so strong they mix it with water and it turns a milky color. It was gross. :) We got free apple tea to wash it all down with after dinner.
The we walked a few blocks in the rain to Eminounou. We stopped at a candy store and bought a bunch of Turkish Delights. They are so yummy. Then we went to the Spice Market. I just wanted to be out of the rain, so I picked a place indoors. We ran into more students from Adam's program. It was so funny how many we saw. We ate at the recommended Gulluoglu baklava store. Adam didn't like it but I thought it was delicious. We wandered around, bought more gifts and took lots of pictures.
We meandered back to the hotel and rested before dinner. We had the hotel staff take us to the cistern. They had a ceramic exhibition in it and Turkish radio was playing. Also, all of the lights are on sensors so as you walked down the floor lights would turn on. That was kind of neat and freaky at the same time.
For dinner we went to Doy Doy down the street from the hotel. It was not good and it made my stomach hurt. I had the eggplant kebab. Ugh...just thinking about it now makes me want to hurl. We had flavored tea for dessert and there was a huge group of Americans from a tour group there. That was so funny! You can really spot us a mile away.
After a bit more shopping, we retired to the room, packed and went to be mighty early. Waking up at 2:30 was a challenge, especially since we didn't sleep very well. Hmm...not as fun as I wanted my last day to be, but we had to make due with what we were given.
Showing posts with label food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label food. Show all posts
Wednesday, April 9, 2008
Friday, April 4, 2008
Today
First, let me say that I just had the best stuffed grape leaf that I have ever had! OMG! And it was at the hotel restaurant. Their food is really good. Breakfast is scrumptious.
So this morning, I went to Taksim Square and walked down the urban, pedestrian street called Istiklal Cadessi. It has a very European feel to it. Actually, other than the Ottoman architecture and music, the whole place has a European feel to it.
Istiklal is a part of the new district and the street is lined with clothing shops and such. There are no pushy sales people here! More my kind of place. I went to one of the outlet-type markets, which was ok. I had lunch at Barcelona cafe, which was good. They put dill pickles on my vegetarian pizza. It was really weird, but really good.
This is also where a lot of the famous belly dance costume designers are...It crossed my mind to just go and look, but I decided that would be too hard.
I got lost too, trying to find the funicular. It's this tram that goes up and down a big hill. It was so frustrating to be lost. And when I finally found the stop, I realized I had passed by it a couple of times without even realizing it!
Then I went to the Turkish Bath, called the Cemberlitas Hamam. I got lost looking for that one too. But, Audra was right, it is a place not to be missed. I didn't get the full massage because I thought I wouldn't have enough time..next time, right? So at the bath, you go into this marble room where there are fountains and basins of water. There is a large octagonal marble slab in the middle where you get washed and scrubbed.
First you rinse yourself off and chill for a while, and then a practically naked Turkish lady signals you to lay down on your pestimal. Then, she scrubs you with a thingy and rinses you off. It felt so good and it was gross to see my dead skin cells pill up. Next she takes this pillowcase and fills it with soapy water and she soaps you up and gives you a short massage. It was awesome and the soap smelled so good. Finally, after your rinsing, she takes you over to a basin and washes your hair. I hung out for awhile afterward under the dome. It is not for the shy...don't worry it is completely segregated. Anyway, I'd like to try another one while I am here, if there is time. I will say that it was a big tourist place. I didn't see any locals bathing, at least not in the women's section.
After that, I walked down to Sultanhamet and did some more shopping and browsing. I found a baklava shop and ate some delicious pistachio baklava.
I've been back at the hotel for awhile. I am still trying to decide what to do tomorrow. Adam is at the closing dinner, which I was not allowed to go to. :( I ate dinner at the hotel restaurant. As I mentioned before it was good. OK, I'm done, Adam is back. We need to spend some time together since we don't get to see each other much.
I decided that I am not going to post anymore pictures for now. It is pain to do it on Blogger. I'll get a Picasa album up soon.
So this morning, I went to Taksim Square and walked down the urban, pedestrian street called Istiklal Cadessi. It has a very European feel to it. Actually, other than the Ottoman architecture and music, the whole place has a European feel to it.
Istiklal is a part of the new district and the street is lined with clothing shops and such. There are no pushy sales people here! More my kind of place. I went to one of the outlet-type markets, which was ok. I had lunch at Barcelona cafe, which was good. They put dill pickles on my vegetarian pizza. It was really weird, but really good.
This is also where a lot of the famous belly dance costume designers are...It crossed my mind to just go and look, but I decided that would be too hard.
I got lost too, trying to find the funicular. It's this tram that goes up and down a big hill. It was so frustrating to be lost. And when I finally found the stop, I realized I had passed by it a couple of times without even realizing it!
Then I went to the Turkish Bath, called the Cemberlitas Hamam. I got lost looking for that one too. But, Audra was right, it is a place not to be missed. I didn't get the full massage because I thought I wouldn't have enough time..next time, right? So at the bath, you go into this marble room where there are fountains and basins of water. There is a large octagonal marble slab in the middle where you get washed and scrubbed.
First you rinse yourself off and chill for a while, and then a practically naked Turkish lady signals you to lay down on your pestimal. Then, she scrubs you with a thingy and rinses you off. It felt so good and it was gross to see my dead skin cells pill up. Next she takes this pillowcase and fills it with soapy water and she soaps you up and gives you a short massage. It was awesome and the soap smelled so good. Finally, after your rinsing, she takes you over to a basin and washes your hair. I hung out for awhile afterward under the dome. It is not for the shy...don't worry it is completely segregated. Anyway, I'd like to try another one while I am here, if there is time. I will say that it was a big tourist place. I didn't see any locals bathing, at least not in the women's section.
After that, I walked down to Sultanhamet and did some more shopping and browsing. I found a baklava shop and ate some delicious pistachio baklava.
I've been back at the hotel for awhile. I am still trying to decide what to do tomorrow. Adam is at the closing dinner, which I was not allowed to go to. :( I ate dinner at the hotel restaurant. As I mentioned before it was good. OK, I'm done, Adam is back. We need to spend some time together since we don't get to see each other much.
I decided that I am not going to post anymore pictures for now. It is pain to do it on Blogger. I'll get a Picasa album up soon.
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Still on the subject of food...
Pam sent me this today. Looks wonderful. I must try a recipe soon! Adam will be my guinea pig.
http://www.turkishcookbook.com/
http://www.turkishcookbook.com/
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
Update on veggie food
From Turkishdancer on Bhuz:
"In Turkey, you can find vegeterian dishes in any restaurant, just make sure you ask if there is any meat in the vegetable dishes. It is very common that you eat dishes has no meat cold, and dishes with meat hot...we make a lot of stew type of dishes with meat. I dont eat meat myself,my favs are green beans, mix veggie stews, rice, lentil soup, yogurt soup, salads, eggplant dishes with no meat, dolma (any type).I would also visit some Palaces, and museums if you have time, and dont forget the Bosphourus ferry boat tour to the Islands. Have fun!!!and bargain!!!"
I need to look up dolma...
"In Turkey, you can find vegeterian dishes in any restaurant, just make sure you ask if there is any meat in the vegetable dishes. It is very common that you eat dishes has no meat cold, and dishes with meat hot...we make a lot of stew type of dishes with meat. I dont eat meat myself,my favs are green beans, mix veggie stews, rice, lentil soup, yogurt soup, salads, eggplant dishes with no meat, dolma (any type).I would also visit some Palaces, and museums if you have time, and dont forget the Bosphourus ferry boat tour to the Islands. Have fun!!!and bargain!!!"
I need to look up dolma...
Thursday, February 21, 2008
Vegetarian food
I am nervous about whether or not the don't ask don't tell policy will go into full affect in Turkey regarding my vegetarianism. I am a strict vegetarian. I eat no flesh, but I do eat eggs and dairy. What will I eat? Will I have to eat at least a little seafood or chicken to get by? Ew.
When I travel on a budget, I usually eat only one meal out. Breakfast and lunch consists of something from the grocery store or market. I am perfectly happy going to a park and eating a picinic of bread and cheese, fruit and water. Hopefully I can do this in Istanbul.
I decided to do some research on the subject. Here's what I found:
Badehane (Bade's House) in the Beyoglu area
Bade runs her restaurant the same way as she runs her house: it's always open, everyone is welcome and there's always divine food on the table. Dine on sumptuous grilled eggplant stuffed with vegetables, soya meat and garlic, delicious fried vegetable patties and a delectable selection of mushroom and chicken dishes; the crispy summer salads are excellent and the chef's special (for either lunch or dinner) is also recommended. A further range of rather adventurous, exotic culinary experiments also grace the crockery. Try to visit on a Sunday when a guest chef cooks specials for a full house. This is a cheap and cheerful place to eat.
Parsifal also in the Beyoglu area
Parsifal has been keeping Istanbul's bourgeoisie well fed for the last three years with such delicacies as leek and soya burgers, spinach pie and broccoli au gratin. Helped along with a little French influence in the decor and design, this place is very popular with the locals. It fills up quickly most nights, although you'll rarely need to make a reservation. However, if you have to wait a few minutes for a table then it must be good, right? Try the mushroom soup and check the blackboard for the daily special. The best dessert in the house is Banana Crêpes.
Nature and Peace also in the Beyoglu area
Bunches of dried herbs and vegetables dotted around the walls make this long oblong room reminiscent of a warm and cozy country kitchen. Make sure you check out the blackboard specials before looking at the menu as it's often cheaper to order the daily special - consisting of soup, salad and a main meal - than to order everything separately. Green lentil patties, the NP house salad, and falafel should all be on the hit list of things to try. The cheesecake is definitely the best you'll find in Istanbul, and the pumpkin pie is also good in season.
Hercai in Kadikoy area
Hercai occupies the whole of a gorgeous nineteenth-century three-storey house. Admire original cinema posters from socially conscious films of the past (such as Land and Freedom by Ken Loach, Before the Rain, Children of the Revolution and Protest) while you munch on delicious Imambayildi (literally meaning 'the imam loved it') - a dish made from aubergines cooked gently in olive oil and served cold. The Manti (Turkish ravioli) and spinach quiche are good here too. This place is good value for money, with great service and a peaceful atmosphere - you won't regret your forage into the delightful back streets of Kadiköy!
La Calle in Beyoglu area
Tucked away in the cobbled backstreets of bohemian Tünel, this tiny restaurant is run by the fun young crowd for the fun young crowd. It is located in an area teeming with eccentric local artists and wannabe intellectuals, and is popular for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Tiny red tables are set up outside in the street during the summer. The menu changes regularly. Perusing it you will find a few well-prepared vegetarian dishes freshly made each day. There are also vegetable soups, cold and hot vegetable starters and mains and divine hot chocolate brownieS for dessert. The emphasis here is on fresh and nutritious food.
---I found these on Yahoo! Travel. I didn't realize Yahoo! has such a good travel site. I was able to create a "trip" called Istanbul so that I can add these restaurants to it. I found them by searching for "vegetarian restaurants Istanbul." I love the Web.
My concern with the five restaurants above is that they are probably not authentic Turkish. Most likely more that fancy fusion stuff for upper class. Of course price is an issue too. I don't know how recent the information is, but it looks like Hercai and La Calle are the cheapest.
I still need to do more research on buying food in markets and at stores. More to come on food! I am hungry...off to lunch!
When I travel on a budget, I usually eat only one meal out. Breakfast and lunch consists of something from the grocery store or market. I am perfectly happy going to a park and eating a picinic of bread and cheese, fruit and water. Hopefully I can do this in Istanbul.
I decided to do some research on the subject. Here's what I found:
Badehane (Bade's House) in the Beyoglu area
Bade runs her restaurant the same way as she runs her house: it's always open, everyone is welcome and there's always divine food on the table. Dine on sumptuous grilled eggplant stuffed with vegetables, soya meat and garlic, delicious fried vegetable patties and a delectable selection of mushroom and chicken dishes; the crispy summer salads are excellent and the chef's special (for either lunch or dinner) is also recommended. A further range of rather adventurous, exotic culinary experiments also grace the crockery. Try to visit on a Sunday when a guest chef cooks specials for a full house. This is a cheap and cheerful place to eat.
Parsifal also in the Beyoglu area
Parsifal has been keeping Istanbul's bourgeoisie well fed for the last three years with such delicacies as leek and soya burgers, spinach pie and broccoli au gratin. Helped along with a little French influence in the decor and design, this place is very popular with the locals. It fills up quickly most nights, although you'll rarely need to make a reservation. However, if you have to wait a few minutes for a table then it must be good, right? Try the mushroom soup and check the blackboard for the daily special. The best dessert in the house is Banana Crêpes.
Nature and Peace also in the Beyoglu area
Bunches of dried herbs and vegetables dotted around the walls make this long oblong room reminiscent of a warm and cozy country kitchen. Make sure you check out the blackboard specials before looking at the menu as it's often cheaper to order the daily special - consisting of soup, salad and a main meal - than to order everything separately. Green lentil patties, the NP house salad, and falafel should all be on the hit list of things to try. The cheesecake is definitely the best you'll find in Istanbul, and the pumpkin pie is also good in season.
Hercai in Kadikoy area
Hercai occupies the whole of a gorgeous nineteenth-century three-storey house. Admire original cinema posters from socially conscious films of the past (such as Land and Freedom by Ken Loach, Before the Rain, Children of the Revolution and Protest) while you munch on delicious Imambayildi (literally meaning 'the imam loved it') - a dish made from aubergines cooked gently in olive oil and served cold. The Manti (Turkish ravioli) and spinach quiche are good here too. This place is good value for money, with great service and a peaceful atmosphere - you won't regret your forage into the delightful back streets of Kadiköy!
La Calle in Beyoglu area
Tucked away in the cobbled backstreets of bohemian Tünel, this tiny restaurant is run by the fun young crowd for the fun young crowd. It is located in an area teeming with eccentric local artists and wannabe intellectuals, and is popular for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Tiny red tables are set up outside in the street during the summer. The menu changes regularly. Perusing it you will find a few well-prepared vegetarian dishes freshly made each day. There are also vegetable soups, cold and hot vegetable starters and mains and divine hot chocolate brownieS for dessert. The emphasis here is on fresh and nutritious food.
---I found these on Yahoo! Travel. I didn't realize Yahoo! has such a good travel site. I was able to create a "trip" called Istanbul so that I can add these restaurants to it. I found them by searching for "vegetarian restaurants Istanbul." I love the Web.
My concern with the five restaurants above is that they are probably not authentic Turkish. Most likely more that fancy fusion stuff for upper class. Of course price is an issue too. I don't know how recent the information is, but it looks like Hercai and La Calle are the cheapest.
I still need to do more research on buying food in markets and at stores. More to come on food! I am hungry...off to lunch!
Wednesday, February 13, 2008
Thanks to Amira from Bhuz for this one
"Sulthanamet is the oldest and the most historical part of town (but not the fanciest) and is best suited for visiting during the day. It gets dark at approx 18hr30 and shops close around 19hr00. At night it is a good idea to eat and go out in the Ortakoy, Bebek, Taxim and Beyoglu, Kumpapi areas.
However there is a great and famous Kebab restaurant in Eminonu called: Hamdi Restaurant. Very Turkish and try to make a reservation at the top floor as they have a glass roof and you can look over the old city and the bosporus.
Easiest to use taxi's at night. Make sure the taxi driver switches on the taximeter unless you are happy to fix a price and bargain about the price some don't bargain and just say: taximeter. In that case I recommend putting the map of Istanbul on your lap, to pretend you know where your are going. Like this the driver should be less tempted to take you around the block once too many.
On Sunday go to Ortakoy for the Sunday market with lots of silver jewellery, scarves, silks, bags and art.
Uptown you will find the Istiklal Caddesi in Beyoglu and to Taxim square if you want to do some serious shopping. Good for some lovely lunch spots as well. A lot of Embassy's and Consulates are on Istiklal Caddesi (hope you will not need it). Shops in this area stay open until 21hr00. If you can not get enough of the shops, you can go on to the Ak Merkez and MetroCity malls, they stay open until 22hr00.
MUST GO is İstinye Park Alışveriş Merkezi - Istyine Park Shopping mall - Istinye Park shopping mall is a unique urban lifestyle environment situated on a natural topographical “amphitheater” of residential neighborhoods. Above, a grand circular arrival plaza sits between an open-air lifestyle center and a glass-roofed indoor retail area. With 300 shops and constructed at an expense of $250 million. The new shopping mall offers famous brands like Dolce & Gabbana, Dior, Prada, and Fendi to the Turkish consumer domestically for the first time.
Other shopping malls: METROCITY, Kanyon Levent, Cevahir Alışveriş Merkezi, Akmerkez
To get a good impression of the city is a Bosporus cruise, please refer to Turkey Travel Planner for all the different possibilities.
If you would like to go to a hammam, you can try
- Çemberlitas Hamami
http://www.cemberlitashamami.com/
Vezirhan Caddesi 8
+90 212 522 7974
open from 6hr00 - 00hr00
€ 15 all in for 1,5 hr
- Tarihi Galatasaray Hamami
Turnacibasi Sokak 24
+90 212 252 4242
As you will read anywhere, Istanbul is THE place where "east meets west", so you will find lots of traditional Turkish restaurants and cafés but also many hip & trendy places (restaurants, bars & clubs), many with great views of the Bosporus.
* Leb-i derya (a hip restaurant with a terrace on two levels which is covered this time of year, great views over the city, also a good idea for lunch)
* Anjelique and Vogue, both restaurants of the Istanbul Doors Group.
* Kizkulesi (restaurant on a tiny island in the Bosporus)
* Safran (modern turkish)
*Gulluoglu in KARAKOY - BEST BOREK AND BAKLAVA IN ISTANBUL SINCE 1949 (only Turks know this address)
*SET BALIK LOKANTASI (famous for fish and very very nice)
*Pera Palas
'Created by the people who founded the Orient Express, who could not find a suitable hotel for their guests once they arrived at the end of their journey. Frequented by Agatha Christie who, during her stay here, wrote "Murder on the Orient Express", Great Garbo and Mata Hari, and more than once Atatürk himself. It's worth having a coffee at the patisserie or a drink at the bar to take in the hotel's atmosphere.'
*Orient House and Kervansaray (for an evening of traditional Turkish food and entertainment, complete with music, bellydancers and all the expected folklore) "
However there is a great and famous Kebab restaurant in Eminonu called: Hamdi Restaurant. Very Turkish and try to make a reservation at the top floor as they have a glass roof and you can look over the old city and the bosporus.
Easiest to use taxi's at night. Make sure the taxi driver switches on the taximeter unless you are happy to fix a price and bargain about the price some don't bargain and just say: taximeter. In that case I recommend putting the map of Istanbul on your lap, to pretend you know where your are going. Like this the driver should be less tempted to take you around the block once too many.
On Sunday go to Ortakoy for the Sunday market with lots of silver jewellery, scarves, silks, bags and art.
Uptown you will find the Istiklal Caddesi in Beyoglu and to Taxim square if you want to do some serious shopping. Good for some lovely lunch spots as well. A lot of Embassy's and Consulates are on Istiklal Caddesi (hope you will not need it). Shops in this area stay open until 21hr00. If you can not get enough of the shops, you can go on to the Ak Merkez and MetroCity malls, they stay open until 22hr00.
MUST GO is İstinye Park Alışveriş Merkezi - Istyine Park Shopping mall - Istinye Park shopping mall is a unique urban lifestyle environment situated on a natural topographical “amphitheater” of residential neighborhoods. Above, a grand circular arrival plaza sits between an open-air lifestyle center and a glass-roofed indoor retail area. With 300 shops and constructed at an expense of $250 million. The new shopping mall offers famous brands like Dolce & Gabbana, Dior, Prada, and Fendi to the Turkish consumer domestically for the first time.
Other shopping malls: METROCITY, Kanyon Levent, Cevahir Alışveriş Merkezi, Akmerkez
To get a good impression of the city is a Bosporus cruise, please refer to Turkey Travel Planner for all the different possibilities.
If you would like to go to a hammam, you can try
- Çemberlitas Hamami
http://www.cemberlitashamami.com/
Vezirhan Caddesi 8
+90 212 522 7974
open from 6hr00 - 00hr00
€ 15 all in for 1,5 hr
- Tarihi Galatasaray Hamami
Turnacibasi Sokak 24
+90 212 252 4242
As you will read anywhere, Istanbul is THE place where "east meets west", so you will find lots of traditional Turkish restaurants and cafés but also many hip & trendy places (restaurants, bars & clubs), many with great views of the Bosporus.
* Leb-i derya (a hip restaurant with a terrace on two levels which is covered this time of year, great views over the city, also a good idea for lunch)
* Anjelique and Vogue, both restaurants of the Istanbul Doors Group.
* Kizkulesi (restaurant on a tiny island in the Bosporus)
* Safran (modern turkish)
*Gulluoglu in KARAKOY - BEST BOREK AND BAKLAVA IN ISTANBUL SINCE 1949 (only Turks know this address)
*SET BALIK LOKANTASI (famous for fish and very very nice)
*Pera Palas
'Created by the people who founded the Orient Express, who could not find a suitable hotel for their guests once they arrived at the end of their journey. Frequented by Agatha Christie who, during her stay here, wrote "Murder on the Orient Express", Great Garbo and Mata Hari, and more than once Atatürk himself. It's worth having a coffee at the patisserie or a drink at the bar to take in the hotel's atmosphere.'
*Orient House and Kervansaray (for an evening of traditional Turkish food and entertainment, complete with music, bellydancers and all the expected folklore) "
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
