Showing posts with label restaurant. Show all posts
Showing posts with label restaurant. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

Our last day in Istanbul

Our last day in Istanbul consisted of sleeping in deliciously late and more rain, of course. We hurried through breakfast and made our way into town...this time on foot...no shuttle needed! Yay!

In a previous post I told you that we changed hotels, so I wanted to tell you a little bit more about it. It is called Sarniç, the Turkish word for cistern, because it was built on one. Anyway our room was tiny with a little window that looks inside a shaft of some sort. The A/C was broken and it was so hot and stuffy in there. We also smelled cigarette smoke wafting in from other rooms. Gross. Oh and they were doing construction next door and the sound of demo was giving me a headache.

Other than that it was nice though, the staff was great, the room was clean and breakfast was delicious. Breakfast was on the terrace floor, but the terrace was closed due to bad weather. Oh well. We could still see the Bosphorus and the Blue Mosque up there. There is another mosque nearby and we could hear the blasting call to prayer a few times a day.

Back to our day...we were going to take the Bosphorus cruise but the weather was so bad that it would've been terrible. Plus, we missed the ferry due to oversleeping so we'd have to find a private tour. We walked around the neighborhood in Sutlanhamet, farther away from the hustle and bustle of tourists. We did some more shopping of course, and found some really quaint streets. I will post images when I get them from Adam.

It started raining hard so we stopped to eat in another tourist-type restaurant. The room had a green tinge to it and there were smokers galore. I hate smelling smoke when I am eating. Anyway, the food was good. I had a plate of appetizers and Adam had fried meatballs. We also tried Raiki which is the alcoholic beverage of Turkey. It is like Ouzo. Because it is so strong they mix it with water and it turns a milky color. It was gross. :) We got free apple tea to wash it all down with after dinner.

The we walked a few blocks in the rain to Eminounou. We stopped at a candy store and bought a bunch of Turkish Delights. They are so yummy. Then we went to the Spice Market. I just wanted to be out of the rain, so I picked a place indoors. We ran into more students from Adam's program. It was so funny how many we saw. We ate at the recommended Gulluoglu baklava store. Adam didn't like it but I thought it was delicious. We wandered around, bought more gifts and took lots of pictures.

We meandered back to the hotel and rested before dinner. We had the hotel staff take us to the cistern. They had a ceramic exhibition in it and Turkish radio was playing. Also, all of the lights are on sensors so as you walked down the floor lights would turn on. That was kind of neat and freaky at the same time.

For dinner we went to Doy Doy down the street from the hotel. It was not good and it made my stomach hurt. I had the eggplant kebab. Ugh...just thinking about it now makes me want to hurl. We had flavored tea for dessert and there was a huge group of Americans from a tour group there. That was so funny! You can really spot us a mile away.

After a bit more shopping, we retired to the room, packed and went to be mighty early. Waking up at 2:30 was a challenge, especially since we didn't sleep very well. Hmm...not as fun as I wanted my last day to be, but we had to make due with what we were given.

Saturday, April 5, 2008

I did it! I bought a costume

OK, after thinking about it for a couple of days, I decided to buy a costume. I love it, I really do. I didn't get as good of a price as I would've the first day, but all in all it ended up costing me $240. I forgot to get a skirt with it...It was supposed to be included, but I completely forgot. Luckily, there are places that sell really cheap skirts here...about $15.

Tonight was the night of bad luck. So Adam and I went to town ; we got dropped off at Sultanhamet and it was prayer time so we couldn't go into the Blue Mosque. Then, we tried to go to Hagia Sophia, a church turned mosque turned museum. We couldn't find the entrance so we walked all the way around it only to find it closed!

Est puis (Adam is watching French TV), we walked to the Grand Bazaar to show Adam and get the belly dance costume. It was much better with him, people don't bug me as much. Then we walked to the restaurant Hamdi, which is near the New Mosque. We wanted to eat up at the third floor where the terrace is, but it was full. So we went to the 2nd floor and it was so smoky, we couldn't stand it. Finally we ended up at the 1st floor. That was better, but still a little smoky. The restaurant was packed. Dinner was ok, but of course, the only thing I could eat was appetizer or a pizza.

Then we walked around the square and got TOTALLY ripped off. I am so irritated. So this shoe shiner drops his brush in front of us, so I pick it up for him...then he makes this big deal about giving me a shoe shine at no charge for being so nice. Adam gives him a five because he's nice and then the guy goes on and on about his children at home that he needs to feed. Then he says it's not 5 lira, but 8. I said that he told me no charge and he was like, no but I have kids. I fished around in my purse and gave him some change. Ugh! He had the whole thing planned. I mean every tourist gets the ripped off at least once on their trip, but its just so frustrating that people try to rip you off at every turn. I really hope he has a family to feed.

So Adam is not a fan of the city and I am not that into it. I mean parts of it are great...when you are not being hassled. The architecture is great and there are some fun things to do. My day yesterday on Istiklal Cadessi and the Hamam were great because I got left alone for the most part. But how can you enjoy yourself when you are being hounded and the pollution and cigarette smells are so bad? I know Adam is not a fan...

Anyway there is still much to be done...Topkai Palace, the Suleyman mosque and a Bosphorous cruise, hopefully we'll like it better after all that.

Wednesday, April 2, 2008

I'm here, I'm safe and I'm lovin' it

I made it! I am happily in Istanbul. Everything is wonderful. My flight was uneventful, although I did learn that I can't sleep on airplanes anymore. I got maybe 30 minutes of sleep on the long flight to Munich and maybe about an hour on the way to Istanbul.

The hotel is really nice although it is very far out of town. It is right off the highway, so you can't walk anywhere. I've already tried the shuttle and the taxi system with minmal problems. Arriving was no problems either; the shuttle was already waiting for me. I was so happy to see that the sun was shining and people were lounging along the water. The tulips are in bloom, just like at home. The shuttle driver put on American music and I listened to "San Francisco (Be sure to wear some flowers in your hair)" by Scott McKenzie. It was very zen-like.

The view from our room is amazing. You can see the Sea of Marmara and there are all these barge/boat things everywhere. It's a little foggy out this morning (read: smoggy), but beautiful never the less. If you cock your head a little to the left you can see all the way down the shore to the old town. At night the old city wall and the mosques are lit up. It is quite a site.

Last night, after my nap, Adam and I decided to venture out into town for dinner. It turns out the only way to get off the hotel is by car. The hotel is some kind of Island surrounded by a highway. Ick. Anyway, neither one of us had the proper cash, so we had to pay the cabbie in US dollars. I felt guilty, but Adam said it was ok.

We went to the Süleymaniye area to try a restaurant in one of the guide books. As we stepped outside, we saw a gorgeous mosque and they started their evening prayer, which they blast over the loudspeaker, so everyone in the district can hear it. We were lost as soon as we stepped out of the cab. I thought we were near another mosque and we walked all the way down to street only to find out we needed to walk back up and then around the mosque.

Anyway, we finally found our restaurant which was inside the walls said Mosque. The mosque is called Şehzade and so is the restaurant. The restaurant is located inside a courtyard in an old building that used to me the Koranic school (medrese). We got great service at the restaurant and the waiter spoke English. There was a lute player and these little rooms off to the side filled with Turkish men drinking their tea and smoking hookah.

As I said the service was outstanding, as was the food. Wow! I am totally converted to the Turkish cusine. I had a vegetarian casserole, which was basically this little bowl filled with vegetables, coated in cheese and cooked on hot tiles (according to the oven). They also brought out yummy nan/pita-type bread and cheese that tasted like feta. For an appetizer we ordered cigarette rolls, which is a small pastry filled with cheese. YUM! And we got a crepe filled with honey and nuts for dessert. They also gave us free apple tea to finish the night.

We must have finished dinner at like 11:00pm and we promptly found a cab. That was a ride! I felt like I was on a roller coaster and there were no seat belts. The cabbie had no idea where we were going and he spoke no English. We finally made it home and didn't get to bed until after midnight. Boy am I tired.

Anyway, off to breakfast and then I am taking a shuttle into town to visit the old district, Sutlanahmet. I am going to the grand Bazaar and just to see the sites. This is so great!

Thursday, February 21, 2008

Vegetarian food

I am nervous about whether or not the don't ask don't tell policy will go into full affect in Turkey regarding my vegetarianism. I am a strict vegetarian. I eat no flesh, but I do eat eggs and dairy. What will I eat? Will I have to eat at least a little seafood or chicken to get by? Ew.

When I travel on a budget, I usually eat only one meal out. Breakfast and lunch consists of something from the grocery store or market. I am perfectly happy going to a park and eating a picinic of bread and cheese, fruit and water. Hopefully I can do this in Istanbul.

I decided to do some research on the subject. Here's what I found:
Badehane (Bade's House) in the Beyoglu area
Bade runs her restaurant the same way as she runs her house: it's always open, everyone is welcome and there's always divine food on the table. Dine on sumptuous grilled eggplant stuffed with vegetables, soya meat and garlic, delicious fried vegetable patties and a delectable selection of mushroom and chicken dishes; the crispy summer salads are excellent and the chef's special (for either lunch or dinner) is also recommended. A further range of rather adventurous, exotic culinary experiments also grace the crockery. Try to visit on a Sunday when a guest chef cooks specials for a full house. This is a cheap and cheerful place to eat.

Parsifal also in the Beyoglu area
Parsifal has been keeping Istanbul's bourgeoisie well fed for the last three years with such delicacies as leek and soya burgers, spinach pie and broccoli au gratin. Helped along with a little French influence in the decor and design, this place is very popular with the locals. It fills up quickly most nights, although you'll rarely need to make a reservation. However, if you have to wait a few minutes for a table then it must be good, right? Try the mushroom soup and check the blackboard for the daily special. The best dessert in the house is Banana Crêpes.

Nature and Peace also in the Beyoglu area
Bunches of dried herbs and vegetables dotted around the walls make this long oblong room reminiscent of a warm and cozy country kitchen. Make sure you check out the blackboard specials before looking at the menu as it's often cheaper to order the daily special - consisting of soup, salad and a main meal - than to order everything separately. Green lentil patties, the NP house salad, and falafel should all be on the hit list of things to try. The cheesecake is definitely the best you'll find in Istanbul, and the pumpkin pie is also good in season.

Hercai in Kadikoy area
Hercai occupies the whole of a gorgeous nineteenth-century three-storey house. Admire original cinema posters from socially conscious films of the past (such as Land and Freedom by Ken Loach, Before the Rain, Children of the Revolution and Protest) while you munch on delicious Imambayildi (literally meaning 'the imam loved it') - a dish made from aubergines cooked gently in olive oil and served cold. The Manti (Turkish ravioli) and spinach quiche are good here too. This place is good value for money, with great service and a peaceful atmosphere - you won't regret your forage into the delightful back streets of Kadiköy!

La Calle in Beyoglu area
Tucked away in the cobbled backstreets of bohemian Tünel, this tiny restaurant is run by the fun young crowd for the fun young crowd. It is located in an area teeming with eccentric local artists and wannabe intellectuals, and is popular for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Tiny red tables are set up outside in the street during the summer. The menu changes regularly. Perusing it you will find a few well-prepared vegetarian dishes freshly made each day. There are also vegetable soups, cold and hot vegetable starters and mains and divine hot chocolate brownieS for dessert. The emphasis here is on fresh and nutritious food.

---I found these on Yahoo! Travel. I didn't realize Yahoo! has such a good travel site. I was able to create a "trip" called Istanbul so that I can add these restaurants to it. I found them by searching for "vegetarian restaurants Istanbul." I love the Web.

My concern with the five restaurants above is that they are probably not authentic Turkish. Most likely more that fancy fusion stuff for upper class. Of course price is an issue too. I don't know how recent the information is, but it looks like Hercai and La Calle are the cheapest.

I still need to do more research on buying food in markets and at stores. More to come on food! I am hungry...off to lunch!

Friday, February 15, 2008

Lunch with a friend and lots of notes

Today I had lunch with a friend of mine who went to Istanbul a couple of months ago. She is also a belly dancer, so she had some really great tips.

Here are the most important things I learned:

1) Get a driver from the hotel to pick you up at the airport. Taxi drivers suck and they will rip you off. They probably won't even know where the hotel is. Taxi rates also double at night. She said that taxi drivers don't know where places are, but they know landmarks and neighborhoods. They will drop you off in the general area.

2) It's expensive. Most people use Euro, which sucks for me because the Turkish Lira has a better exchange rate. Bring a calculator.


3) MUST GO to the Turkish bath, Cemberlitas Bath.

4) Write down the name of where you are going on a card and ask people for help. If they don't speak English, they'll recognize the name and point you in the right direction. You may have to do this several times before you find where you are going. Most importantly, carry around your hotel's card and memorize the closests/biggest landmark.

5) Go to Istiklal Caddessi for modern food, shopping and costume makers. Probably my best bet for vegetarian food.

6) Beware of pick pockets and wear a money belt. The trains and subway are crammed and people will try to scam you. On the plus side, public transportation is clean.

7) Outside of the Grand Bazaar is an area to buy beads and semi-precious stones. Must keep in mind for my jewelry. Also, if I want to buy precious metal I need to know the daily rate and make sure they weigh it.

8) The belly dance shows are good, but expensive and often with mediocre dancing and bad food. She said they all serve the same meal. She also said that the dancers all do raqs sharqi instead of Turkish-style. She suggested getting the hotel to book, so you don't get ripped off. GAR and Caravanserai seem like the best bets.

9) Go to the Aratsu Market. Not very well-known.

10) Of course, the Blue Mosque and some palace that I forgot to write the name of.

Anyway, I'm sure I will find out more from my lovely resource. She's going to send me cards of places to go, as well as help me figure out the public transportation system. She'll go over the map with me and mark the places I need to get off at. :)

I am bummed that things will be more expensive over there. I was hoping that I could use Lira which is less valuable than the dollar. That way I would get everything at about 20 percent off. But if I have to use Euro then that makes everything TWICE as expensive. I really need to brainstorm more ways to come up with money for the trip.

It looks like buying a nice costume is out of the question as they will run $550 and above. Although she also says they are worth it and much better than Egyptian costumes. I just bought a brand-new costume and I can't really justify buying another one.

It also sounds like people are very nice, yet willing to scam you or get their "commission." I must practice my bargaining and my stern look. Being from the south, that might be hard. Oh well, we'll see how it goes. I am still very excited!!!


Photos by Audra Evans. Used with permission.

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Thanks to Amira from Bhuz for this one

"Sulthanamet is the oldest and the most historical part of town (but not the fanciest) and is best suited for visiting during the day. It gets dark at approx 18hr30 and shops close around 19hr00. At night it is a good idea to eat and go out in the Ortakoy, Bebek, Taxim and Beyoglu, Kumpapi areas.

However there is a great and famous Kebab restaurant in Eminonu called: Hamdi Restaurant. Very Turkish and try to make a reservation at the top floor as they have a glass roof and you can look over the old city and the bosporus.

Easiest to use taxi's at night. Make sure the taxi driver switches on the taximeter unless you are happy to fix a price and bargain about the price some don't bargain and just say: taximeter. In that case I recommend putting the map of Istanbul on your lap, to pretend you know where your are going. Like this the driver should be less tempted to take you around the block once too many.

On Sunday go to Ortakoy for the Sunday market with lots of silver jewellery, scarves, silks, bags and art.

Uptown you will find the Istiklal Caddesi in Beyoglu and to Taxim square if you want to do some serious shopping. Good for some lovely lunch spots as well. A lot of Embassy's and Consulates are on Istiklal Caddesi (hope you will not need it). Shops in this area stay open until 21hr00. If you can not get enough of the shops, you can go on to the Ak Merkez and MetroCity malls, they stay open until 22hr00.

MUST GO is İstinye Park Alışveriş Merkezi - Istyine Park Shopping mall - Istinye Park shopping mall is a unique urban lifestyle environment situated on a natural topographical “amphitheater” of residential neighborhoods. Above, a grand circular arrival plaza sits between an open-air lifestyle center and a glass-roofed indoor retail area. With 300 shops and constructed at an expense of $250 million. The new shopping mall offers famous brands like Dolce & Gabbana, Dior, Prada, and Fendi to the Turkish consumer domestically for the first time.

Other shopping malls: METROCITY, Kanyon Levent, Cevahir Alışveriş Merkezi, Akmerkez

To get a good impression of the city is a Bosporus cruise, please refer to Turkey Travel Planner for all the different possibilities.

If you would like to go to a hammam, you can try
- Çemberlitas Hamami
http://www.cemberlitashamami.com/
Vezirhan Caddesi 8
+90 212 522 7974
open from 6hr00 - 00hr00
€ 15 all in for 1,5 hr

- Tarihi Galatasaray Hamami
Turnacibasi Sokak 24
+90 212 252 4242

As you will read anywhere, Istanbul is THE place where "east meets west", so you will find lots of traditional Turkish restaurants and cafés but also many hip & trendy places (restaurants, bars & clubs), many with great views of the Bosporus.

* Leb-i derya (a hip restaurant with a terrace on two levels which is covered this time of year, great views over the city, also a good idea for lunch)

* Anjelique and Vogue, both restaurants of the Istanbul Doors Group.

* Kizkulesi (restaurant on a tiny island in the Bosporus)

* Safran (modern turkish)

*Gulluoglu in KARAKOY - BEST BOREK AND BAKLAVA IN ISTANBUL SINCE 1949 (only Turks know this address)

*SET BALIK LOKANTASI (famous for fish and very very nice)

*Pera Palas
'Created by the people who founded the Orient Express, who could not find a suitable hotel for their guests once they arrived at the end of their journey. Frequented by Agatha Christie who, during her stay here, wrote "Murder on the Orient Express", Great Garbo and Mata Hari, and more than once Atatürk himself. It's worth having a coffee at the patisserie or a drink at the bar to take in the hotel's atmosphere.'

*Orient House and Kervansaray (for an evening of traditional Turkish food and entertainment, complete with music, bellydancers and all the expected folklore) "