I did it! I bought a costume

OK, after thinking about it for a couple of days, I decided to buy a costume. I love it, I really do. I didn't get as good of a price as I would've the first day, but all in all it ended up costing me $240. I forgot to get a skirt with it...It was supposed to be included, but I completely forgot. Luckily, there are places that sell really cheap skirts here...about $15.

Tonight was the night of bad luck. So Adam and I went to town ; we got dropped off at Sultanhamet and it was prayer time so we couldn't go into the Blue Mosque. Then, we tried to go to Hagia Sophia, a church turned mosque turned museum. We couldn't find the entrance so we walked all the way around it only to find it closed!

Est puis (Adam is watching French TV), we walked to the Grand Bazaar to show Adam and get the belly dance costume. It was much better with him, people don't bug me as much. Then we walked to the restaurant Hamdi, which is near the New Mosque. We wanted to eat up at the third floor where the terrace is, but it was full. So we went to the 2nd floor and it was so smoky, we couldn't stand it. Finally we ended up at the 1st floor. That was better, but still a little smoky. The restaurant was packed. Dinner was ok, but of course, the only thing I could eat was appetizer or a pizza.

Then we walked around the square and got TOTALLY ripped off. I am so irritated. So this shoe shiner drops his brush in front of us, so I pick it up for him...then he makes this big deal about giving me a shoe shine at no charge for being so nice. Adam gives him a five because he's nice and then the guy goes on and on about his children at home that he needs to feed. Then he says it's not 5 lira, but 8. I said that he told me no charge and he was like, no but I have kids. I fished around in my purse and gave him some change. Ugh! He had the whole thing planned. I mean every tourist gets the ripped off at least once on their trip, but its just so frustrating that people try to rip you off at every turn. I really hope he has a family to feed.

So Adam is not a fan of the city and I am not that into it. I mean parts of it are great...when you are not being hassled. The architecture is great and there are some fun things to do. My day yesterday on Istiklal Cadessi and the Hamam were great because I got left alone for the most part. But how can you enjoy yourself when you are being hounded and the pollution and cigarette smells are so bad? I know Adam is not a fan...

Anyway there is still much to be done...Topkai Palace, the Suleyman mosque and a Bosphorous cruise, hopefully we'll like it better after all that.

Not doing much right now

I decided to take it easy today and hang out. It is a beautiful day and I am cooped up in the hotel room. I am trying not to feel guilty about it. You see, Adam, gets off work in a couple of hours. Then he'll be done for the week! Yay! I am so excited about spending more time with him.

Anyway, I could've gone into town, only to have to come back to the hotel a few hours later, to go back out again. I told Adam he could meet me downtown, but he didn't feel comfortable with that. So I just decided to wait. I mean there is so much I could be doing, but I am exhausted and everyone knows how unpleasant I can be when I am tired. Since I'll be spending the next 3 days with Adam, I want to be pleasant.

Speaking of Adam, have I mentioned he is the best? :) Yesterday, when I returned to the hotel he was waiting for me with a gift! He bought me a shirt from a designer that he visited yesterday during the program. It is really cool...a little too small, but I plan on fitting into it eventually. I felt bad because, I've been meaning to pick him up something this whole time, I just haven't found the right thing. Actually, that is true of everyone...I am finding it hard to shop for gifts. I made a list yesterday and I still have a lot to do. This afternoon Adam and I are going to the Grand Bazaar, so maybe I'll find some more stuff. We're also going to Hagia Sophia.

Tomorrow, we change hotel rooms to something downtown. This hotel is great. The room is cute, the view is great and the food is even better, but it sucks being so far out of town. Our new hotel should be nice. I may not have Internet there, so I can't promise more posts... View from hotel...using telephoto lens.
Hagia Sophia

Tulips

Today

First, let me say that I just had the best stuffed grape leaf that I have ever had! OMG! And it was at the hotel restaurant. Their food is really good. Breakfast is scrumptious.

So this morning, I went to Taksim Square and walked down the urban, pedestrian street called Istiklal Cadessi. It has a very European feel to it. Actually, other than the Ottoman architecture and music, the whole place has a European feel to it.

Istiklal is a part of the new district and the street is lined with clothing shops and such. There are no pushy sales people here! More my kind of place. I went to one of the outlet-type markets, which was ok. I had lunch at Barcelona cafe, which was good. They put dill pickles on my vegetarian pizza. It was really weird, but really good.

This is also where a lot of the famous belly dance costume designers are...It crossed my mind to just go and look, but I decided that would be too hard.

I got lost too, trying to find the funicular. It's this tram that goes up and down a big hill. It was so frustrating to be lost. And when I finally found the stop, I realized I had passed by it a couple of times without even realizing it!

Then I went to the Turkish Bath, called the Cemberlitas Hamam. I got lost looking for that one too. But, Audra was right, it is a place not to be missed. I didn't get the full massage because I thought I wouldn't have enough time..next time, right? So at the bath, you go into this marble room where there are fountains and basins of water. There is a large octagonal marble slab in the middle where you get washed and scrubbed.

First you rinse yourself off and chill for a while, and then a practically naked Turkish lady signals you to lay down on your pestimal. Then, she scrubs you with a thingy and rinses you off. It felt so good and it was gross to see my dead skin cells pill up. Next she takes this pillowcase and fills it with soapy water and she soaps you up and gives you a short massage. It was awesome and the soap smelled so good. Finally, after your rinsing, she takes you over to a basin and washes your hair. I hung out for awhile afterward under the dome. It is not for the shy...don't worry it is completely segregated. Anyway, I'd like to try another one while I am here, if there is time. I will say that it was a big tourist place. I didn't see any locals bathing, at least not in the women's section.

After that, I walked down to Sultanhamet and did some more shopping and browsing. I found a baklava shop and ate some delicious pistachio baklava.

I've been back at the hotel for awhile. I am still trying to decide what to do tomorrow. Adam is at the closing dinner, which I was not allowed to go to. :( I ate dinner at the hotel restaurant. As I mentioned before it was good. OK, I'm done, Adam is back. We need to spend some time together since we don't get to see each other much.

I decided that I am not going to post anymore pictures for now. It is pain to do it on Blogger. I'll get a Picasa album up soon.

Outside of the New Mosque

Here is a 360 degree view of the New Mosque, Spice Market and Galata Bridge.

Yesterday

Ready for the next installment? Whew! This is going to be a long one as I have just had two packed days...

Yesterday I took the shuttle to Sultanhamet, the part of Istanbul that is tightly packed with mosques and tourists. As soon as I stepped off the shuttle I was hounded by vultures. These are men who prey on unsuspecting tourists by trying to lure them into their business. They wait by the area where all the tourists get dropped off by bus, van or taxi and then they jump with their impeccable English. I can't even begin to tell you how annoying it is.

When I tried to brush the first vulture off he followed me to the Blue Mosque. Then he was, "Why are you being all aggressive? Why you so angry with me?" I told him just wanted to be left alone and that I didn't want to see his carpets. Ugh!

So the Blue Mosque was nice, but nothing to write home about...I am not into big, old churches or what not. I mean the outside is gorgeous, especially the park around it. But the inside smells musty and well, don't shoot me, I'm just not that into it.

Next, I went to the Grand Bazaar. An old man on "his day off" offered to walk me there. He asked if he could accompany me inside and I told him no. I never did figure out what his deal was. Inside was crazy! Those vendors are so aggressive and they jack up the prices! I found some belly dancing shops and almost bought a costume. It was quite nice, but at $260 that was still too high. I still might go back. He was very nice and he had my size which he called the, "special, hard to find" size. Boy was he right about that! The first shop I went to, the seller sent me up these steep, scary stairs to a room filled with bra and belt sets from head to toe! Every one he pulled out was too small for me until I was like, "I'm leaving now, you don't have my size." He told me he did and I told him to keep looking until I came back (which I never did).

Then I went to Ali Baba, which was supposed to have nice costumes...Well, I got a little person for a salesperson, who was smoking like a fiend and I hate to hear myself say this, but he freaked me out. I also went upstairs to the costume room, which was filled to the brim, but I just couldn't did through all those boxes and my shadow certainly wasn't helping...So no costume for me. All I bought was a shawl for Erika. I had to haggle to get the price down, but it is beautiful. A seller at another shop in the Spice market said I got a really good price. Kudos to me! I hope it is real!

Yeah, so then I had lunch and took the tram to the Spice Market, aka the Egyptian Bazaar. I checked out the New Mosque and watched the pigeons. I also visited the Pet/Plant market...which was crazy. They were selling bunnies, leaches, chickens, ducks, turtles, and fish, not to mention the random stray cats hanging out every where. It made me really sad to see the animals in such poor condition.

Anyway, the Spice Market was much nicer. The salespeople are still pushy, but not as bad. There are more locals there, so it is slightly more authentic. Outside of the market there are street vendors and there were a lot of good shops. I bought some food for dinner, because Adam and I decided to stay in. I took the tram back to Sultanhamet and I got there at the wrong time because the tram was soooooo packed it was way uncomfortable. It was commuter time or something, because the tram was full of locals.

I got to Sultanhamet early and I just hung out for an hour or so...I found another market, Aratasu, which Audra told me about. It was ok, still the prices are way too high! Finally, the shuttle came at 5:00pm and I didn't get to the hotel until 7:00! Yep, two hours on the shuttle, smelling diesel fumes and feeling so tired. I was the only one on the shuttle, but the driver was very nice, despite not knowing any English.

So, the reason why the shuttle took forever is that the Olympic torch came through yesterday, so they closed a lot of roads and it was packed. I saw the parade starting earlier that day down by Hagia Sophia, but when I was on the shuttle, they were having festivities at Taksim square and that's where we got stuck.

Adam got really worried about me. I finally got back and let me tell you, I was not in a good mood! Thank God I brought Clif Bars! So I brought dinner for us to eat in the room. It consisted of strawberries, radishes, sesame bagel-type things, cheese, and lots of cookies. :) Adam wouldn't eat my strawberries and I got offended. He said they were dirty because I bought them from a street vendor...his dad apparently told him that Egyptian produce is bad and it will give you hepatitis. First of all, Egypt is far away from Turkey, and second of all, that information is outdated by a couple of decades. We searched the web and couldn't find anything about it...I ate them and I feel fine. But you're not supposed to drink the tap water.

Ok, that was yesterday...most of it anyway. I'll explain today after dinner...

I'm here, I'm safe and I'm lovin' it

I made it! I am happily in Istanbul. Everything is wonderful. My flight was uneventful, although I did learn that I can't sleep on airplanes anymore. I got maybe 30 minutes of sleep on the long flight to Munich and maybe about an hour on the way to Istanbul.

The hotel is really nice although it is very far out of town. It is right off the highway, so you can't walk anywhere. I've already tried the shuttle and the taxi system with minmal problems. Arriving was no problems either; the shuttle was already waiting for me. I was so happy to see that the sun was shining and people were lounging along the water. The tulips are in bloom, just like at home. The shuttle driver put on American music and I listened to "San Francisco (Be sure to wear some flowers in your hair)" by Scott McKenzie. It was very zen-like.

The view from our room is amazing. You can see the Sea of Marmara and there are all these barge/boat things everywhere. It's a little foggy out this morning (read: smoggy), but beautiful never the less. If you cock your head a little to the left you can see all the way down the shore to the old town. At night the old city wall and the mosques are lit up. It is quite a site.

Last night, after my nap, Adam and I decided to venture out into town for dinner. It turns out the only way to get off the hotel is by car. The hotel is some kind of Island surrounded by a highway. Ick. Anyway, neither one of us had the proper cash, so we had to pay the cabbie in US dollars. I felt guilty, but Adam said it was ok.

We went to the Süleymaniye area to try a restaurant in one of the guide books. As we stepped outside, we saw a gorgeous mosque and they started their evening prayer, which they blast over the loudspeaker, so everyone in the district can hear it. We were lost as soon as we stepped out of the cab. I thought we were near another mosque and we walked all the way down to street only to find out we needed to walk back up and then around the mosque.

Anyway, we finally found our restaurant which was inside the walls said Mosque. The mosque is called Şehzade and so is the restaurant. The restaurant is located inside a courtyard in an old building that used to me the Koranic school (medrese). We got great service at the restaurant and the waiter spoke English. There was a lute player and these little rooms off to the side filled with Turkish men drinking their tea and smoking hookah.

As I said the service was outstanding, as was the food. Wow! I am totally converted to the Turkish cusine. I had a vegetarian casserole, which was basically this little bowl filled with vegetables, coated in cheese and cooked on hot tiles (according to the oven). They also brought out yummy nan/pita-type bread and cheese that tasted like feta. For an appetizer we ordered cigarette rolls, which is a small pastry filled with cheese. YUM! And we got a crepe filled with honey and nuts for dessert. They also gave us free apple tea to finish the night.

We must have finished dinner at like 11:00pm and we promptly found a cab. That was a ride! I felt like I was on a roller coaster and there were no seat belts. The cabbie had no idea where we were going and he spoke no English. We finally made it home and didn't get to bed until after midnight. Boy am I tired.

Anyway, off to breakfast and then I am taking a shuttle into town to visit the old district, Sutlanahmet. I am going to the grand Bazaar and just to see the sites. This is so great!