Well, I guess this is the end of this blogging adventure...I'd like to start another one, but I am short on topics to discuss.
Anyway, thanks to everyone for reading my blog. Also another huge thanks to Adam for providing food, shelter and gifts while on the trip. And again deep thanks to Terri, Erika and mom for the monetary gifts. Thanks to Audra and Courtney for their advice.
Also, I just wanted to let you know that my two guidebooks were awesome. Rick Steve's was a great reference and guide. We would stand aside before entering a site and read about it and then continue; these are called walking tours. Or if we got confused we would refer to the guide to figure out where to go next. (Thank you, Rick, for listing WCs on your maps!)
The Time Out guide was also good and it was used as much, but for different purposes. This one was more pocket friendly and I was able to refer to it's maps quickly and effectively. It indexed all the streets, so they were easy to find. It also had better sections on shopping and restaurants. I know I was hesitant at first, but I am really glad I bought two guides! (Well, technically three, but Adam adopted it as his own...that one was OK by the way, as the best restaurant we went to the whole trip was listed in it.)
OK, any questions, feel free to ask me. Until next trip...
Monday, April 14, 2008
Friday, April 11, 2008
My five regrets
During the planning process of my trip, I enthusiastically picked a ton of stuff to do...of course, life happens and you can't do everything. Here is a list of things that I regret to have missed in Istanbul.
1. I missed the Bosphorous cruise...this was sadly due to bad weather and there wasn't much I could do about that. I mean we could've braved it and took a tour in the drizzle, but that is no fun.
2. I didn't get to see the Harem at Topkapı Palace...this was just annoying and poor Adam had to put up with my bad mood after the ordeal. Here's the thing, it's a total rip-off...you have to pay 10 TYL to get in to the palace and then buy an additional ticket for 10 TYL to get into the harem. When we got to the first ticket booth, we realized we only had enough cash to get into the palace and not to visit the palace. We asked the man at the ticket counter if we could use a credit card, he said yes, so we decided that we would give him cash and use the credit card at the Harem. Well, after looking around the grounds, we head over to the Harem just in time for the last tour. We try to pay with the credit card but the rude man tells us that the machine is already closed out...we don't have any lira and the sign clearly says lira only. A nice man standing behind us notices our problem and offers to do a quick exchange of dollars to lira for us. I refused because I didn't want to get ripped off again, although I am sure he was just being nice...then again, trusting the Turks was hard for me at this point. Anyway, what kind of place closes the credit card machines before it closes? That was the second time that happened to me in Turkey! Seriously, keep the credit card machines going until you've served your last customer!
3. I didn't go to the Asian side of Istanbul...Sadly, I can still only claim that I've only been to two continents. Had I been to Asian Istanbul, I could claim three. Perhaps if we would've done the cruise, I would've made it to the other shore. Or I could've taken one of my sightseeing days to go over there...but again, the weather was bad and there was so much to do on the European side. Adam made it to Asia because that is where his plane landed when he arrived. Lucky him...he's going to China in a month too, so he gets to really visit Asia. He wins. :(
4. I didn't try Turkish coffee...I don't really know how this feel off my radar because I am a huge coffee lover. It just seemed that at mealtime I just wanted water or a delicious coca-cola. I also had apple tea a few times. In the morning, I always drank the hotel coffee and when I thought to try Turkish coffee it was too late at night or I wasn't in the mood. The NC Turkish festival will be here next weekend and perhaps I'll go to it just to try some coffee.
5. I didn't buy enough stuff...OK, this seems ridiculous considering I spent about $700 in a week. I know, I know. But I am still thinking about things that I should've bought but didn't. I am so glad I bought that costume, because I would really regret it if I hadn't. I surprisingly don't regret not going to the costume-makers. Anyway, I am still thinking about the beads I should've bought, the silk that was only 10 TYL a meter (cheap!), the coins and appliques for making costumes, and more pashmina.
I also got really stressed out about buying gifts for everyone. I felt so much pressure and looking at my pile now, it seems too light. I should've bought more! Adam thought it was crazy that I was spending so much money on presents for others, but it is hard for him to understand that everyone in my family expects something and I have a huge family! Not to mention all of the friends that also expect gifts. He only has me and his two parents. I love shopping and buying things for myself and others, but with the pushy salespeople and prices, I just didn't go all out like I wanted to...oh well. It's just stuff.
1. I missed the Bosphorous cruise...this was sadly due to bad weather and there wasn't much I could do about that. I mean we could've braved it and took a tour in the drizzle, but that is no fun.
2. I didn't get to see the Harem at Topkapı Palace...this was just annoying and poor Adam had to put up with my bad mood after the ordeal. Here's the thing, it's a total rip-off...you have to pay 10 TYL to get in to the palace and then buy an additional ticket for 10 TYL to get into the harem. When we got to the first ticket booth, we realized we only had enough cash to get into the palace and not to visit the palace. We asked the man at the ticket counter if we could use a credit card, he said yes, so we decided that we would give him cash and use the credit card at the Harem. Well, after looking around the grounds, we head over to the Harem just in time for the last tour. We try to pay with the credit card but the rude man tells us that the machine is already closed out...we don't have any lira and the sign clearly says lira only. A nice man standing behind us notices our problem and offers to do a quick exchange of dollars to lira for us. I refused because I didn't want to get ripped off again, although I am sure he was just being nice...then again, trusting the Turks was hard for me at this point. Anyway, what kind of place closes the credit card machines before it closes? That was the second time that happened to me in Turkey! Seriously, keep the credit card machines going until you've served your last customer!
3. I didn't go to the Asian side of Istanbul...Sadly, I can still only claim that I've only been to two continents. Had I been to Asian Istanbul, I could claim three. Perhaps if we would've done the cruise, I would've made it to the other shore. Or I could've taken one of my sightseeing days to go over there...but again, the weather was bad and there was so much to do on the European side. Adam made it to Asia because that is where his plane landed when he arrived. Lucky him...he's going to China in a month too, so he gets to really visit Asia. He wins. :(
4. I didn't try Turkish coffee...I don't really know how this feel off my radar because I am a huge coffee lover. It just seemed that at mealtime I just wanted water or a delicious coca-cola. I also had apple tea a few times. In the morning, I always drank the hotel coffee and when I thought to try Turkish coffee it was too late at night or I wasn't in the mood. The NC Turkish festival will be here next weekend and perhaps I'll go to it just to try some coffee.
5. I didn't buy enough stuff...OK, this seems ridiculous considering I spent about $700 in a week. I know, I know. But I am still thinking about things that I should've bought but didn't. I am so glad I bought that costume, because I would really regret it if I hadn't. I surprisingly don't regret not going to the costume-makers. Anyway, I am still thinking about the beads I should've bought, the silk that was only 10 TYL a meter (cheap!), the coins and appliques for making costumes, and more pashmina.
I also got really stressed out about buying gifts for everyone. I felt so much pressure and looking at my pile now, it seems too light. I should've bought more! Adam thought it was crazy that I was spending so much money on presents for others, but it is hard for him to understand that everyone in my family expects something and I have a huge family! Not to mention all of the friends that also expect gifts. He only has me and his two parents. I love shopping and buying things for myself and others, but with the pushy salespeople and prices, I just didn't go all out like I wanted to...oh well. It's just stuff.
Thursday, April 10, 2008
Topkapı Palace overlook
A view of the Bosphorous from Mecidiye Pavilion. Notice the French tourists in the background, and of course, the bad weather.
My five least favorite things about Istanbul
I made a top five best things, to stay on the positive side, but I just have to vent about my least favorite things too...
1. The tourist traps...everyone is trying to get you. They want your money, they want to rip you off. I can't stand being hounded by people at every turn. If a vendor is in his shop and he sees you start to walk by, he will rush out the door and start calling you in. I hate not being able to look at people, it feels rude, but you just have to there. If you looked at everyone who talked to you, you would never get out alive. These people are vultures and their behavior is despicable.
2. The smoke...you can smoke everywhere except inside mosques and museums...at the airport, in the bazaars, in restaurants, etc. It is awful. People are so rude about their cigarettes and cigars. I don't mind hookah smoke, but smoke in general is so nasty. Don't get me wrong, I respect people's rights to do what they wish to their bodies, but when I don't have a choice about what I breathe, then I get upset. It made me very grateful to live in the U.S. where the stuff is banned in most public places.
3. The cars/traffic...people drive like maniacs over there. Turkey has one of the highest rates of of vehicle accidents in the world. People don't wear seat belts and they routinely ignore pedestrians, speed limits and other vehicles. Most of the taxis and shuttles I was in were not properly equipped. I often felt like I was on a wild roller coaster ride. My favorite shuttle driver from Novotel did drive very well and I was grateful for the seat belt.
4. The pollution...this is always one of my least favorite things about major urban areas, and it also going hand in hand with numbers 2 and 3. Over the skyline there is this brownish smog. Gross. The smell of diesel fumes was also quite strong and it gave me a headache. Additionally, when all of the street markets would close the amount of trash and crap left lying on the ground was disgusting.
5. I'm finding it hard to come up with a fifth one, so I'll just leave it at four. I could say that the high prices were annoying, but that goes with number 1. I also don't like crowds. These are things that are true of any major tourist destination though. I guess I am just not an urban woman.
1. The tourist traps...everyone is trying to get you. They want your money, they want to rip you off. I can't stand being hounded by people at every turn. If a vendor is in his shop and he sees you start to walk by, he will rush out the door and start calling you in. I hate not being able to look at people, it feels rude, but you just have to there. If you looked at everyone who talked to you, you would never get out alive. These people are vultures and their behavior is despicable.
2. The smoke...you can smoke everywhere except inside mosques and museums...at the airport, in the bazaars, in restaurants, etc. It is awful. People are so rude about their cigarettes and cigars. I don't mind hookah smoke, but smoke in general is so nasty. Don't get me wrong, I respect people's rights to do what they wish to their bodies, but when I don't have a choice about what I breathe, then I get upset. It made me very grateful to live in the U.S. where the stuff is banned in most public places.
3. The cars/traffic...people drive like maniacs over there. Turkey has one of the highest rates of of vehicle accidents in the world. People don't wear seat belts and they routinely ignore pedestrians, speed limits and other vehicles. Most of the taxis and shuttles I was in were not properly equipped. I often felt like I was on a wild roller coaster ride. My favorite shuttle driver from Novotel did drive very well and I was grateful for the seat belt.
4. The pollution...this is always one of my least favorite things about major urban areas, and it also going hand in hand with numbers 2 and 3. Over the skyline there is this brownish smog. Gross. The smell of diesel fumes was also quite strong and it gave me a headache. Additionally, when all of the street markets would close the amount of trash and crap left lying on the ground was disgusting.
5. I'm finding it hard to come up with a fifth one, so I'll just leave it at four. I could say that the high prices were annoying, but that goes with number 1. I also don't like crowds. These are things that are true of any major tourist destination though. I guess I am just not an urban woman.
Wednesday, April 9, 2008
My top five favorite things about Istanbul
My top five favorite things about Istanbul:
1. Tulips...I will always remember the beautiful tulips everywhere. How pleasant and wonderful. Driving around NC today, I longed to see them along the highways, like in Istanbul.
2. The Turkish Bath...totally hedonistic and relaxing. After walking around the hilly city for a couple of days, the hamam is a nice respite from the crowds, filth and bustle. I would do this again in a heartbeat. It is worth returning to Istanbul for.
3. The food...The first night we ate out in Istanbul the food was divine. I longed for a meal that good for the rest of the trip. The Turkish breakfasts were delicious too. My two favorite things: cheese and bread galore...along with yogurt, fresh and dried fruit, vegetables, and pastries. It was so nice to fill up on a bunch of food before going out for the day. It was enough to tide me over until lunch, even after all of that walking. The desserts were awesome as well...namely baklava and Turkish delights.
4. Being close to the water...While I didn't get to take the Bosphorus cruise like I wanted, just being near the water was a great feeling. I loved opening the windows in the morning and looking out at the Sea of Marmara. Istanbul is also a hilly city, so you'd just be walking around checking out stuff and all of the sudden there is a beautiful vista in front of you. At night, the boats are sparkly on the water and during the day the water is such a rich blue color.
5. The age of it all...Here is the states everything is new, with the exception of native American pueblos and such. But in Istanbul, everything is old...it is practically the heart of civilization. Topkapi palace: 1470s, although built on the ruins of Byzantinium; Hagia Sophia: a.d. 530s, Galata Tower: 1348; the Grand Bazaar: 1461, although parts of it go back to the 9th century; Sultanhamet: early 1600s; the Egyptian Obelisk: 1500 BC, although it was moved to Istanbul in a.d. 390; the Hippodrome: 4th century a.d....I could go on and on. I don't claim to know much about architecture, but I sure do appreciate it. I mean, the engineering is amazing. Wish people would build stuff that hardy today.
1. Tulips...I will always remember the beautiful tulips everywhere. How pleasant and wonderful. Driving around NC today, I longed to see them along the highways, like in Istanbul.
2. The Turkish Bath...totally hedonistic and relaxing. After walking around the hilly city for a couple of days, the hamam is a nice respite from the crowds, filth and bustle. I would do this again in a heartbeat. It is worth returning to Istanbul for.
3. The food...The first night we ate out in Istanbul the food was divine. I longed for a meal that good for the rest of the trip. The Turkish breakfasts were delicious too. My two favorite things: cheese and bread galore...along with yogurt, fresh and dried fruit, vegetables, and pastries. It was so nice to fill up on a bunch of food before going out for the day. It was enough to tide me over until lunch, even after all of that walking. The desserts were awesome as well...namely baklava and Turkish delights.
4. Being close to the water...While I didn't get to take the Bosphorus cruise like I wanted, just being near the water was a great feeling. I loved opening the windows in the morning and looking out at the Sea of Marmara. Istanbul is also a hilly city, so you'd just be walking around checking out stuff and all of the sudden there is a beautiful vista in front of you. At night, the boats are sparkly on the water and during the day the water is such a rich blue color.
5. The age of it all...Here is the states everything is new, with the exception of native American pueblos and such. But in Istanbul, everything is old...it is practically the heart of civilization. Topkapi palace: 1470s, although built on the ruins of Byzantinium; Hagia Sophia: a.d. 530s, Galata Tower: 1348; the Grand Bazaar: 1461, although parts of it go back to the 9th century; Sultanhamet: early 1600s; the Egyptian Obelisk: 1500 BC, although it was moved to Istanbul in a.d. 390; the Hippodrome: 4th century a.d....I could go on and on. I don't claim to know much about architecture, but I sure do appreciate it. I mean, the engineering is amazing. Wish people would build stuff that hardy today.
Our last day in Istanbul
Our last day in Istanbul consisted of sleeping in deliciously late and more rain, of course. We hurried through breakfast and made our way into town...this time on foot...no shuttle needed! Yay!
In a previous post I told you that we changed hotels, so I wanted to tell you a little bit more about it. It is called Sarniç, the Turkish word for cistern, because it was built on one. Anyway our room was tiny with a little window that looks inside a shaft of some sort. The A/C was broken and it was so hot and stuffy in there. We also smelled cigarette smoke wafting in from other rooms. Gross. Oh and they were doing construction next door and the sound of demo was giving me a headache.
Other than that it was nice though, the staff was great, the room was clean and breakfast was delicious. Breakfast was on the terrace floor, but the terrace was closed due to bad weather. Oh well. We could still see the Bosphorus and the Blue Mosque up there. There is another mosque nearby and we could hear the blasting call to prayer a few times a day.
Back to our day...we were going to take the Bosphorus cruise but the weather was so bad that it would've been terrible. Plus, we missed the ferry due to oversleeping so we'd have to find a private tour. We walked around the neighborhood in Sutlanhamet, farther away from the hustle and bustle of tourists. We did some more shopping of course, and found some really quaint streets. I will post images when I get them from Adam.
It started raining hard so we stopped to eat in another tourist-type restaurant. The room had a green tinge to it and there were smokers galore. I hate smelling smoke when I am eating. Anyway, the food was good. I had a plate of appetizers and Adam had fried meatballs. We also tried Raiki which is the alcoholic beverage of Turkey. It is like Ouzo. Because it is so strong they mix it with water and it turns a milky color. It was gross. :) We got free apple tea to wash it all down with after dinner.
The we walked a few blocks in the rain to Eminounou. We stopped at a candy store and bought a bunch of Turkish Delights. They are so yummy. Then we went to the Spice Market. I just wanted to be out of the rain, so I picked a place indoors. We ran into more students from Adam's program. It was so funny how many we saw. We ate at the recommended Gulluoglu baklava store. Adam didn't like it but I thought it was delicious. We wandered around, bought more gifts and took lots of pictures.
We meandered back to the hotel and rested before dinner. We had the hotel staff take us to the cistern. They had a ceramic exhibition in it and Turkish radio was playing. Also, all of the lights are on sensors so as you walked down the floor lights would turn on. That was kind of neat and freaky at the same time.
For dinner we went to Doy Doy down the street from the hotel. It was not good and it made my stomach hurt. I had the eggplant kebab. Ugh...just thinking about it now makes me want to hurl. We had flavored tea for dessert and there was a huge group of Americans from a tour group there. That was so funny! You can really spot us a mile away.
After a bit more shopping, we retired to the room, packed and went to be mighty early. Waking up at 2:30 was a challenge, especially since we didn't sleep very well. Hmm...not as fun as I wanted my last day to be, but we had to make due with what we were given.
In a previous post I told you that we changed hotels, so I wanted to tell you a little bit more about it. It is called Sarniç, the Turkish word for cistern, because it was built on one. Anyway our room was tiny with a little window that looks inside a shaft of some sort. The A/C was broken and it was so hot and stuffy in there. We also smelled cigarette smoke wafting in from other rooms. Gross. Oh and they were doing construction next door and the sound of demo was giving me a headache.
Other than that it was nice though, the staff was great, the room was clean and breakfast was delicious. Breakfast was on the terrace floor, but the terrace was closed due to bad weather. Oh well. We could still see the Bosphorus and the Blue Mosque up there. There is another mosque nearby and we could hear the blasting call to prayer a few times a day.
Back to our day...we were going to take the Bosphorus cruise but the weather was so bad that it would've been terrible. Plus, we missed the ferry due to oversleeping so we'd have to find a private tour. We walked around the neighborhood in Sutlanhamet, farther away from the hustle and bustle of tourists. We did some more shopping of course, and found some really quaint streets. I will post images when I get them from Adam.
It started raining hard so we stopped to eat in another tourist-type restaurant. The room had a green tinge to it and there were smokers galore. I hate smelling smoke when I am eating. Anyway, the food was good. I had a plate of appetizers and Adam had fried meatballs. We also tried Raiki which is the alcoholic beverage of Turkey. It is like Ouzo. Because it is so strong they mix it with water and it turns a milky color. It was gross. :) We got free apple tea to wash it all down with after dinner.
The we walked a few blocks in the rain to Eminounou. We stopped at a candy store and bought a bunch of Turkish Delights. They are so yummy. Then we went to the Spice Market. I just wanted to be out of the rain, so I picked a place indoors. We ran into more students from Adam's program. It was so funny how many we saw. We ate at the recommended Gulluoglu baklava store. Adam didn't like it but I thought it was delicious. We wandered around, bought more gifts and took lots of pictures.
We meandered back to the hotel and rested before dinner. We had the hotel staff take us to the cistern. They had a ceramic exhibition in it and Turkish radio was playing. Also, all of the lights are on sensors so as you walked down the floor lights would turn on. That was kind of neat and freaky at the same time.
For dinner we went to Doy Doy down the street from the hotel. It was not good and it made my stomach hurt. I had the eggplant kebab. Ugh...just thinking about it now makes me want to hurl. We had flavored tea for dessert and there was a huge group of Americans from a tour group there. That was so funny! You can really spot us a mile away.
After a bit more shopping, we retired to the room, packed and went to be mighty early. Waking up at 2:30 was a challenge, especially since we didn't sleep very well. Hmm...not as fun as I wanted my last day to be, but we had to make due with what we were given.
Tuesday, April 8, 2008
I'm home.
I made it home with no problems. I am utterly exhausted and have been up for over 24 hours at this point, minus a few naps in the airport and on the plane. I am so happy to be home and I can't wait to cuddle with Banjo in my own bed! More follow-up posts on the trip soon.
Monday, April 7, 2008
My journey home begins...
So we're leaving soon...it's nice to travel but it's also nice to come home. We've had a busy couple of days. I hope to report on most of it, but I am not sure if I can tonight. I'll try to do it as soon as I get home so that the memories are still fresh in my mind.
Our wake up call is at 2:30 and our shuttle leaves at 3:00...that's the AM folks. Adam's flight leaves at 5:35 and mine is at 6:35. UGH. I hope to sleep on the plane this time around.
Here's a quick run down of Yesterday:
We checked out of the hotel and walked around Sultanhamet, saw the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. Hagia Sophia was nice but they are doing renovation, so half of the dome was covered in scaffolding. Next we had lunch...it was raining and it was really annoying. Then, we went to Topkapi Palace. It was nice...and huge. We were frustrated because we couldn't buy tickets to the harem (the best part) because they closed the credit card machine and we didn't have any cash. Ok, so at this point it is raining and we're tired and grumpy.
We walked back to the hotel and rested until a shuttle came to pick us up for the belly dance show. It was at the Galata Tower which is a huge tower originally used as a lighthouse, then a prison, then something else, and now it is home to a cheesy touristy Turkish night show. There was a Sultan, live musicians Turkish dancers, belly dancers and a lounge singer. The first belly dancer wasn't very good. She looked sooooo bored and her technique was terrible. The other belly dancer was much better. I'll post pictures soon.
The lounge singer called the "Showman" was funny. He pulled me up on stage and had me dance up there with other ladies from different countries, then he made Adam come up and we danced in front of everyone! HA! It was hilarious.
The food was terrible, but the views were spectacular. It was so expensive too, but it was our big night out together so we had fun. The shuttle was crazy though...another roller coaster ride on the streets of Istanbul...
Well, my suitcase is packed to the brim with my Turkish goodies. I will write more later. It's 9:45 PM here so we have 5 hours until we have to leave!
Our wake up call is at 2:30 and our shuttle leaves at 3:00...that's the AM folks. Adam's flight leaves at 5:35 and mine is at 6:35. UGH. I hope to sleep on the plane this time around.
Here's a quick run down of Yesterday:
We checked out of the hotel and walked around Sultanhamet, saw the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. Hagia Sophia was nice but they are doing renovation, so half of the dome was covered in scaffolding. Next we had lunch...it was raining and it was really annoying. Then, we went to Topkapi Palace. It was nice...and huge. We were frustrated because we couldn't buy tickets to the harem (the best part) because they closed the credit card machine and we didn't have any cash. Ok, so at this point it is raining and we're tired and grumpy.
We walked back to the hotel and rested until a shuttle came to pick us up for the belly dance show. It was at the Galata Tower which is a huge tower originally used as a lighthouse, then a prison, then something else, and now it is home to a cheesy touristy Turkish night show. There was a Sultan, live musicians Turkish dancers, belly dancers and a lounge singer. The first belly dancer wasn't very good. She looked sooooo bored and her technique was terrible. The other belly dancer was much better. I'll post pictures soon.
The lounge singer called the "Showman" was funny. He pulled me up on stage and had me dance up there with other ladies from different countries, then he made Adam come up and we danced in front of everyone! HA! It was hilarious.
The food was terrible, but the views were spectacular. It was so expensive too, but it was our big night out together so we had fun. The shuttle was crazy though...another roller coaster ride on the streets of Istanbul...
Well, my suitcase is packed to the brim with my Turkish goodies. I will write more later. It's 9:45 PM here so we have 5 hours until we have to leave!
Saturday, April 5, 2008
I did it! I bought a costume
OK, after thinking about it for a couple of days, I decided to buy a costume. I love it, I really do. I didn't get as good of a price as I would've the first day, but all in all it ended up costing me $240. I forgot to get a skirt with it...It was supposed to be included, but I completely forgot. Luckily, there are places that sell really cheap skirts here...about $15.
Tonight was the night of bad luck. So Adam and I went to town ; we got dropped off at Sultanhamet and it was prayer time so we couldn't go into the Blue Mosque. Then, we tried to go to Hagia Sophia, a church turned mosque turned museum. We couldn't find the entrance so we walked all the way around it only to find it closed!
Est puis (Adam is watching French TV), we walked to the Grand Bazaar to show Adam and get the belly dance costume. It was much better with him, people don't bug me as much. Then we walked to the restaurant Hamdi, which is near the New Mosque. We wanted to eat up at the third floor where the terrace is, but it was full. So we went to the 2nd floor and it was so smoky, we couldn't stand it. Finally we ended up at the 1st floor. That was better, but still a little smoky. The restaurant was packed. Dinner was ok, but of course, the only thing I could eat was appetizer or a pizza.
Then we walked around the square and got TOTALLY ripped off. I am so irritated. So this shoe shiner drops his brush in front of us, so I pick it up for him...then he makes this big deal about giving me a shoe shine at no charge for being so nice. Adam gives him a five because he's nice and then the guy goes on and on about his children at home that he needs to feed. Then he says it's not 5 lira, but 8. I said that he told me no charge and he was like, no but I have kids. I fished around in my purse and gave him some change. Ugh! He had the whole thing planned. I mean every tourist gets the ripped off at least once on their trip, but its just so frustrating that people try to rip you off at every turn. I really hope he has a family to feed.
So Adam is not a fan of the city and I am not that into it. I mean parts of it are great...when you are not being hassled. The architecture is great and there are some fun things to do. My day yesterday on Istiklal Cadessi and the Hamam were great because I got left alone for the most part. But how can you enjoy yourself when you are being hounded and the pollution and cigarette smells are so bad? I know Adam is not a fan...
Anyway there is still much to be done...Topkai Palace, the Suleyman mosque and a Bosphorous cruise, hopefully we'll like it better after all that.
Not doing much right now
I decided to take it easy today and hang out. It is a beautiful day and I am cooped up in the hotel room. I am trying not to feel guilty about it. You see, Adam, gets off work in a couple of hours. Then he'll be done for the week! Yay! I am so excited about spending more time with him.
Anyway, I could've gone into town, only to have to come back to the hotel a few hours later, to go back out again. I told Adam he could meet me downtown, but he didn't feel comfortable with that. So I just decided to wait. I mean there is so much I could be doing, but I am exhausted and everyone knows how unpleasant I can be when I am tired. Since I'll be spending the next 3 days with Adam, I want to be pleasant.
Speaking of Adam, have I mentioned he is the best? :) Yesterday, when I returned to the hotel he was waiting for me with a gift! He bought me a shirt from a designer that he visited yesterday during the program. It is really cool...a little too small, but I plan on fitting into it eventually. I felt bad because, I've been meaning to pick him up something this whole time, I just haven't found the right thing. Actually, that is true of everyone...I am finding it hard to shop for gifts. I made a list yesterday and I still have a lot to do. This afternoon Adam and I are going to the Grand Bazaar, so maybe I'll find some more stuff. We're also going to Hagia Sophia.
Tomorrow, we change hotel rooms to something downtown. This hotel is great. The room is cute, the view is great and the food is even better, but it sucks being so far out of town. Our new hotel should be nice. I may not have Internet there, so I can't promise more posts...
View from hotel...using telephoto lens.
Hagia Sophia
Anyway, I could've gone into town, only to have to come back to the hotel a few hours later, to go back out again. I told Adam he could meet me downtown, but he didn't feel comfortable with that. So I just decided to wait. I mean there is so much I could be doing, but I am exhausted and everyone knows how unpleasant I can be when I am tired. Since I'll be spending the next 3 days with Adam, I want to be pleasant.
Speaking of Adam, have I mentioned he is the best? :) Yesterday, when I returned to the hotel he was waiting for me with a gift! He bought me a shirt from a designer that he visited yesterday during the program. It is really cool...a little too small, but I plan on fitting into it eventually. I felt bad because, I've been meaning to pick him up something this whole time, I just haven't found the right thing. Actually, that is true of everyone...I am finding it hard to shop for gifts. I made a list yesterday and I still have a lot to do. This afternoon Adam and I are going to the Grand Bazaar, so maybe I'll find some more stuff. We're also going to Hagia Sophia.
Tomorrow, we change hotel rooms to something downtown. This hotel is great. The room is cute, the view is great and the food is even better, but it sucks being so far out of town. Our new hotel should be nice. I may not have Internet there, so I can't promise more posts...
View from hotel...using telephoto lens.
Hagia Sophia
Friday, April 4, 2008
Today
First, let me say that I just had the best stuffed grape leaf that I have ever had! OMG! And it was at the hotel restaurant. Their food is really good. Breakfast is scrumptious.
So this morning, I went to Taksim Square and walked down the urban, pedestrian street called Istiklal Cadessi. It has a very European feel to it. Actually, other than the Ottoman architecture and music, the whole place has a European feel to it.
Istiklal is a part of the new district and the street is lined with clothing shops and such. There are no pushy sales people here! More my kind of place. I went to one of the outlet-type markets, which was ok. I had lunch at Barcelona cafe, which was good. They put dill pickles on my vegetarian pizza. It was really weird, but really good.
This is also where a lot of the famous belly dance costume designers are...It crossed my mind to just go and look, but I decided that would be too hard.
I got lost too, trying to find the funicular. It's this tram that goes up and down a big hill. It was so frustrating to be lost. And when I finally found the stop, I realized I had passed by it a couple of times without even realizing it!
Then I went to the Turkish Bath, called the Cemberlitas Hamam. I got lost looking for that one too. But, Audra was right, it is a place not to be missed. I didn't get the full massage because I thought I wouldn't have enough time..next time, right? So at the bath, you go into this marble room where there are fountains and basins of water. There is a large octagonal marble slab in the middle where you get washed and scrubbed.
First you rinse yourself off and chill for a while, and then a practically naked Turkish lady signals you to lay down on your pestimal. Then, she scrubs you with a thingy and rinses you off. It felt so good and it was gross to see my dead skin cells pill up. Next she takes this pillowcase and fills it with soapy water and she soaps you up and gives you a short massage. It was awesome and the soap smelled so good. Finally, after your rinsing, she takes you over to a basin and washes your hair. I hung out for awhile afterward under the dome. It is not for the shy...don't worry it is completely segregated. Anyway, I'd like to try another one while I am here, if there is time. I will say that it was a big tourist place. I didn't see any locals bathing, at least not in the women's section.
After that, I walked down to Sultanhamet and did some more shopping and browsing. I found a baklava shop and ate some delicious pistachio baklava.
I've been back at the hotel for awhile. I am still trying to decide what to do tomorrow. Adam is at the closing dinner, which I was not allowed to go to. :( I ate dinner at the hotel restaurant. As I mentioned before it was good. OK, I'm done, Adam is back. We need to spend some time together since we don't get to see each other much.
I decided that I am not going to post anymore pictures for now. It is pain to do it on Blogger. I'll get a Picasa album up soon.
So this morning, I went to Taksim Square and walked down the urban, pedestrian street called Istiklal Cadessi. It has a very European feel to it. Actually, other than the Ottoman architecture and music, the whole place has a European feel to it.
Istiklal is a part of the new district and the street is lined with clothing shops and such. There are no pushy sales people here! More my kind of place. I went to one of the outlet-type markets, which was ok. I had lunch at Barcelona cafe, which was good. They put dill pickles on my vegetarian pizza. It was really weird, but really good.
This is also where a lot of the famous belly dance costume designers are...It crossed my mind to just go and look, but I decided that would be too hard.
I got lost too, trying to find the funicular. It's this tram that goes up and down a big hill. It was so frustrating to be lost. And when I finally found the stop, I realized I had passed by it a couple of times without even realizing it!
Then I went to the Turkish Bath, called the Cemberlitas Hamam. I got lost looking for that one too. But, Audra was right, it is a place not to be missed. I didn't get the full massage because I thought I wouldn't have enough time..next time, right? So at the bath, you go into this marble room where there are fountains and basins of water. There is a large octagonal marble slab in the middle where you get washed and scrubbed.
First you rinse yourself off and chill for a while, and then a practically naked Turkish lady signals you to lay down on your pestimal. Then, she scrubs you with a thingy and rinses you off. It felt so good and it was gross to see my dead skin cells pill up. Next she takes this pillowcase and fills it with soapy water and she soaps you up and gives you a short massage. It was awesome and the soap smelled so good. Finally, after your rinsing, she takes you over to a basin and washes your hair. I hung out for awhile afterward under the dome. It is not for the shy...don't worry it is completely segregated. Anyway, I'd like to try another one while I am here, if there is time. I will say that it was a big tourist place. I didn't see any locals bathing, at least not in the women's section.
After that, I walked down to Sultanhamet and did some more shopping and browsing. I found a baklava shop and ate some delicious pistachio baklava.
I've been back at the hotel for awhile. I am still trying to decide what to do tomorrow. Adam is at the closing dinner, which I was not allowed to go to. :( I ate dinner at the hotel restaurant. As I mentioned before it was good. OK, I'm done, Adam is back. We need to spend some time together since we don't get to see each other much.
I decided that I am not going to post anymore pictures for now. It is pain to do it on Blogger. I'll get a Picasa album up soon.
Outside of the New Mosque
Here is a 360 degree view of the New Mosque, Spice Market and Galata Bridge.
Yesterday
Ready for the next installment? Whew! This is going to be a long one as I have just had two packed days...
Yesterday I took the shuttle to Sultanhamet, the part of Istanbul that is tightly packed with mosques and tourists. As soon as I stepped off the shuttle I was hounded by vultures. These are men who prey on unsuspecting tourists by trying to lure them into their business. They wait by the area where all the tourists get dropped off by bus, van or taxi and then they jump with their impeccable English. I can't even begin to tell you how annoying it is.
When I tried to brush the first vulture off he followed me to the Blue Mosque. Then he was, "Why are you being all aggressive? Why you so angry with me?" I told him just wanted to be left alone and that I didn't want to see his carpets. Ugh!
So the Blue Mosque was nice, but nothing to write home about...I am not into big, old churches or what not. I mean the outside is gorgeous, especially the park around it. But the inside smells musty and well, don't shoot me, I'm just not that into it.
Next, I went to the Grand Bazaar. An old man on "his day off" offered to walk me there. He asked if he could accompany me inside and I told him no. I never did figure out what his deal was. Inside was crazy! Those vendors are so aggressive and they jack up the prices! I found some belly dancing shops and almost bought a costume. It was quite nice, but at $260 that was still too high. I still might go back. He was very nice and he had my size which he called the, "special, hard to find" size. Boy was he right about that! The first shop I went to, the seller sent me up these steep, scary stairs to a room filled with bra and belt sets from head to toe! Every one he pulled out was too small for me until I was like, "I'm leaving now, you don't have my size." He told me he did and I told him to keep looking until I came back (which I never did).
Then I went to Ali Baba, which was supposed to have nice costumes...Well, I got a little person for a salesperson, who was smoking like a fiend and I hate to hear myself say this, but he freaked me out. I also went upstairs to the costume room, which was filled to the brim, but I just couldn't did through all those boxes and my shadow certainly wasn't helping...So no costume for me. All I bought was a shawl for Erika. I had to haggle to get the price down, but it is beautiful. A seller at another shop in the Spice market said I got a really good price. Kudos to me! I hope it is real!
Yeah, so then I had lunch and took the tram to the Spice Market, aka the Egyptian Bazaar. I checked out the New Mosque and watched the pigeons. I also visited the Pet/Plant market...which was crazy. They were selling bunnies, leaches, chickens, ducks, turtles, and fish, not to mention the random stray cats hanging out every where. It made me really sad to see the animals in such poor condition.
Anyway, the Spice Market was much nicer. The salespeople are still pushy, but not as bad. There are more locals there, so it is slightly more authentic. Outside of the market there are street vendors and there were a lot of good shops. I bought some food for dinner, because Adam and I decided to stay in. I took the tram back to Sultanhamet and I got there at the wrong time because the tram was soooooo packed it was way uncomfortable. It was commuter time or something, because the tram was full of locals.
I got to Sultanhamet early and I just hung out for an hour or so...I found another market, Aratasu, which Audra told me about. It was ok, still the prices are way too high! Finally, the shuttle came at 5:00pm and I didn't get to the hotel until 7:00! Yep, two hours on the shuttle, smelling diesel fumes and feeling so tired. I was the only one on the shuttle, but the driver was very nice, despite not knowing any English.
So, the reason why the shuttle took forever is that the Olympic torch came through yesterday, so they closed a lot of roads and it was packed. I saw the parade starting earlier that day down by Hagia Sophia, but when I was on the shuttle, they were having festivities at Taksim square and that's where we got stuck.
Adam got really worried about me. I finally got back and let me tell you, I was not in a good mood! Thank God I brought Clif Bars! So I brought dinner for us to eat in the room. It consisted of strawberries, radishes, sesame bagel-type things, cheese, and lots of cookies. :) Adam wouldn't eat my strawberries and I got offended. He said they were dirty because I bought them from a street vendor...his dad apparently told him that Egyptian produce is bad and it will give you hepatitis. First of all, Egypt is far away from Turkey, and second of all, that information is outdated by a couple of decades. We searched the web and couldn't find anything about it...I ate them and I feel fine. But you're not supposed to drink the tap water.
Ok, that was yesterday...most of it anyway. I'll explain today after dinner...
Yesterday I took the shuttle to Sultanhamet, the part of Istanbul that is tightly packed with mosques and tourists. As soon as I stepped off the shuttle I was hounded by vultures. These are men who prey on unsuspecting tourists by trying to lure them into their business. They wait by the area where all the tourists get dropped off by bus, van or taxi and then they jump with their impeccable English. I can't even begin to tell you how annoying it is.
When I tried to brush the first vulture off he followed me to the Blue Mosque. Then he was, "Why are you being all aggressive? Why you so angry with me?" I told him just wanted to be left alone and that I didn't want to see his carpets. Ugh!
So the Blue Mosque was nice, but nothing to write home about...I am not into big, old churches or what not. I mean the outside is gorgeous, especially the park around it. But the inside smells musty and well, don't shoot me, I'm just not that into it.
Next, I went to the Grand Bazaar. An old man on "his day off" offered to walk me there. He asked if he could accompany me inside and I told him no. I never did figure out what his deal was. Inside was crazy! Those vendors are so aggressive and they jack up the prices! I found some belly dancing shops and almost bought a costume. It was quite nice, but at $260 that was still too high. I still might go back. He was very nice and he had my size which he called the, "special, hard to find" size. Boy was he right about that! The first shop I went to, the seller sent me up these steep, scary stairs to a room filled with bra and belt sets from head to toe! Every one he pulled out was too small for me until I was like, "I'm leaving now, you don't have my size." He told me he did and I told him to keep looking until I came back (which I never did).
Then I went to Ali Baba, which was supposed to have nice costumes...Well, I got a little person for a salesperson, who was smoking like a fiend and I hate to hear myself say this, but he freaked me out. I also went upstairs to the costume room, which was filled to the brim, but I just couldn't did through all those boxes and my shadow certainly wasn't helping...So no costume for me. All I bought was a shawl for Erika. I had to haggle to get the price down, but it is beautiful. A seller at another shop in the Spice market said I got a really good price. Kudos to me! I hope it is real!
Yeah, so then I had lunch and took the tram to the Spice Market, aka the Egyptian Bazaar. I checked out the New Mosque and watched the pigeons. I also visited the Pet/Plant market...which was crazy. They were selling bunnies, leaches, chickens, ducks, turtles, and fish, not to mention the random stray cats hanging out every where. It made me really sad to see the animals in such poor condition.
Anyway, the Spice Market was much nicer. The salespeople are still pushy, but not as bad. There are more locals there, so it is slightly more authentic. Outside of the market there are street vendors and there were a lot of good shops. I bought some food for dinner, because Adam and I decided to stay in. I took the tram back to Sultanhamet and I got there at the wrong time because the tram was soooooo packed it was way uncomfortable. It was commuter time or something, because the tram was full of locals.
I got to Sultanhamet early and I just hung out for an hour or so...I found another market, Aratasu, which Audra told me about. It was ok, still the prices are way too high! Finally, the shuttle came at 5:00pm and I didn't get to the hotel until 7:00! Yep, two hours on the shuttle, smelling diesel fumes and feeling so tired. I was the only one on the shuttle, but the driver was very nice, despite not knowing any English.
So, the reason why the shuttle took forever is that the Olympic torch came through yesterday, so they closed a lot of roads and it was packed. I saw the parade starting earlier that day down by Hagia Sophia, but when I was on the shuttle, they were having festivities at Taksim square and that's where we got stuck.
Adam got really worried about me. I finally got back and let me tell you, I was not in a good mood! Thank God I brought Clif Bars! So I brought dinner for us to eat in the room. It consisted of strawberries, radishes, sesame bagel-type things, cheese, and lots of cookies. :) Adam wouldn't eat my strawberries and I got offended. He said they were dirty because I bought them from a street vendor...his dad apparently told him that Egyptian produce is bad and it will give you hepatitis. First of all, Egypt is far away from Turkey, and second of all, that information is outdated by a couple of decades. We searched the web and couldn't find anything about it...I ate them and I feel fine. But you're not supposed to drink the tap water.Ok, that was yesterday...most of it anyway. I'll explain today after dinner...
Wednesday, April 2, 2008
I'm here, I'm safe and I'm lovin' it
I made it! I am happily in Istanbul. Everything is wonderful. My flight was uneventful, although I did learn that I can't sleep on airplanes anymore. I got maybe 30 minutes of sleep on the long flight to Munich and maybe about an hour on the way to Istanbul.
The hotel is really nice although it is very far out of town. It is right off the highway, so you can't walk anywhere. I've already tried the shuttle and the taxi system with minmal problems. Arriving was no problems either; the shuttle was already waiting for me. I was so happy to see that the sun was shining and people were lounging along the water. The tulips are in bloom, just like at home. The shuttle driver put on American music and I listened to "San Francisco (Be sure to wear some flowers in your hair)" by Scott McKenzie. It was very zen-like.
The view from our room is amazing. You can see the Sea of Marmara and there are all these barge/boat things everywhere. It's a little foggy out this morning (read: smoggy), but beautiful never the less. If you cock your head a little to the left you can see all the way down the shore to the old town. At night the old city wall and the mosques are lit up. It is quite a site.
Last night, after my nap, Adam and I decided to venture out into town for dinner. It turns out the only way to get off the hotel is by car. The hotel is some kind of Island surrounded by a highway. Ick. Anyway, neither one of us had the proper cash, so we had to pay the cabbie in US dollars. I felt guilty, but Adam said it was ok.
We went to the Süleymaniye area to try a restaurant in one of the guide books. As we stepped outside, we saw a gorgeous mosque and they started their evening prayer, which they blast over the loudspeaker, so everyone in the district can hear it. We were lost as soon as we stepped out of the cab. I thought we were near another mosque and we walked all the way down to street only to find out we needed to walk back up and then around the mosque.
Anyway, we finally found our restaurant which was inside the walls said Mosque. The mosque is called Şehzade and so is the restaurant. The restaurant is located inside a courtyard in an old building that used to me the Koranic school (medrese). We got great service at the restaurant and the waiter spoke English. There was a lute player and these little rooms off to the side filled with Turkish men drinking their tea and smoking hookah.
We must have finished dinner at like 11:00pm and we promptly found a cab. That was a ride! I felt like I was on a roller coaster and there were no seat belts. The cabbie had no idea where we were going and he spoke no English. We finally made it home and didn't get to bed until after midnight. Boy am I tired.
Anyway, off to breakfast and then I am taking a shuttle into town to visit the old district, Sutlanahmet. I am going to the grand Bazaar and just to see the sites. This is so great!
The hotel is really nice although it is very far out of town. It is right off the highway, so you can't walk anywhere. I've already tried the shuttle and the taxi system with minmal problems. Arriving was no problems either; the shuttle was already waiting for me. I was so happy to see that the sun was shining and people were lounging along the water. The tulips are in bloom, just like at home. The shuttle driver put on American music and I listened to "San Francisco (Be sure to wear some flowers in your hair)" by Scott McKenzie. It was very zen-like.
The view from our room is amazing. You can see the Sea of Marmara and there are all these barge/boat things everywhere. It's a little foggy out this morning (read: smoggy), but beautiful never the less. If you cock your head a little to the left you can see all the way down the shore to the old town. At night the old city wall and the mosques are lit up. It is quite a site.
Last night, after my nap, Adam and I decided to venture out into town for dinner. It turns out the only way to get off the hotel is by car. The hotel is some kind of Island surrounded by a highway. Ick. Anyway, neither one of us had the proper cash, so we had to pay the cabbie in US dollars. I felt guilty, but Adam said it was ok.
We went to the Süleymaniye area to try a restaurant in one of the guide books. As we stepped outside, we saw a gorgeous mosque and they started their evening prayer, which they blast over the loudspeaker, so everyone in the district can hear it. We were lost as soon as we stepped out of the cab. I thought we were near another mosque and we walked all the way down to street only to find out we needed to walk back up and then around the mosque.
Anyway, we finally found our restaurant which was inside the walls said Mosque. The mosque is called Şehzade and so is the restaurant. The restaurant is located inside a courtyard in an old building that used to me the Koranic school (medrese). We got great service at the restaurant and the waiter spoke English. There was a lute player and these little rooms off to the side filled with Turkish men drinking their tea and smoking hookah.
We must have finished dinner at like 11:00pm and we promptly found a cab. That was a ride! I felt like I was on a roller coaster and there were no seat belts. The cabbie had no idea where we were going and he spoke no English. We finally made it home and didn't get to bed until after midnight. Boy am I tired.
Anyway, off to breakfast and then I am taking a shuttle into town to visit the old district, Sutlanahmet. I am going to the grand Bazaar and just to see the sites. This is so great!
Friday, March 28, 2008
One more thing, the weather!
I forgot to mention how bummed I am about the crappy weather over there. Ugh! It's supposed to rain or be overcast the whole time! I was expecting sunshine and warmth. Boo. I pray that weather.com is wrong. I mean how accurate are weather people anyway?
http://www.weather.com/outlook/travel/businesstraveler/tenday/TUXX0014?from=36hr_topnav_business
OK, so to look on the bright side...at least it won't be freezing cold...
http://www.weather.com/outlook/travel/businesstraveler/tenday/TUXX0014?from=36hr_topnav_business
OK, so to look on the bright side...at least it won't be freezing cold...
Just a few more days
I dropped Adam off at the airport today. He'll be in Rotterdam for a few days before Turkey. I get this really excited feeling in my stomach when I think about our rendez-vous in Turkey!
He amazed me this morning. He had one backpack...ok, kinda two, because it's the kind that has the little pack that zips off. Anyway, he was able to fit enough clothes in there for 10 days, plus a laptop, plus a digital SLR, and books and such. What a man. I'm bringing this big old suitcase thing...the plan is to leave extra room to bring back gifts though. ;)
So preparation is still going strong. I contacted the Orient Youth Hostel about be
lly dancing. They usually have it on Monday, Wednesday and Friday nights. The guy said it was the slow season so they will probably just have in on Monday or Friday. I think we have dinner plans on Friday, so maybe we can go the Monday night before we leave. From the Web site though, it looks like their belly dancer is a bit...hmm...risqué. I am going to try to talk Adam into going to one of the expensive Oriental shows designed for tourists. We'll see.
lly dancing. They usually have it on Monday, Wednesday and Friday nights. The guy said it was the slow season so they will probably just have in on Monday or Friday. I think we have dinner plans on Friday, so maybe we can go the Monday night before we leave. From the Web site though, it looks like their belly dancer is a bit...hmm...risqué. I am going to try to talk Adam into going to one of the expensive Oriental shows designed for tourists. We'll see.So I watched a docu-show last night called Globe Trekker: Istanbul. It was pretty cute. The hostess was good and she went to the main attractions plus some. My favorite part was where when she went to watch the "gypsies" dance. She came out in yellow bedlah that was too big for her and I was afraid she was going to pop out the whole time. She was in a small room with some musicians and some really young looking dancers. You could tell they were not quite Roma-style dancers, not Oriental either, something in between. My other favorite part was when she ate sheep brain at dinner. EW!!!
The night before that Adam had me watch a show on Turkey called "The Silk Road". It was from a French television show and he downloaded it from the Internet so it was all grainy. It was also pretty good though. The show explained more of the inner-workings of things in Turkey, as opposed to Globe Trekker that just showed tourist stuff. The Silk Road showed the gold trade and they went into a gold smith. They also went to Cappadoce where they worship pigeons and collect their poop for fertilizer.
The show felt really long because it was in French. I understood a bit of it, but not a lot. Adam started translating for me and it was much better. I didn't want him to at first, but I am glad that he did. Actually, it's not that I didn't want him to, it's that at first he was just translating the easy stuff that I could understand. It is when he was explaining the complicated stuff that I wouldn't be able to understand even if I did speak better French, that I appreciated it. Gosh, I am stubborn!
Anyway, I still need to do laundry, pack and add my tourist schedule to the itinerary. Then I'll be all set. Woo hoo!
Wednesday, March 26, 2008
Thank you
I just wanted to thank everyone who helped me prepare for my trip thus far. I couldn't do it without you. A more complete thank you will be done after the trip, I am sure.Thanks to Adam for being the best boyfriend ever and for paying for my hotel room. :)
Thanks to mom for the early B-day present
Thanks to Terri and Erika for letting me be your personal shoppers
Thanks to Audra and Courtney for the advice
Thanks to Karah for lending me your giant suitcase
Thanks to Sheila for watching my cat
Thanks to everyone else for their love and support.
I am just feeling so grateful that I am able to go on this trip. I know I had to put it on my credit card initially, but with the help of everyone I should be able to pay off most of it. I am so lucky that this will be my sixth adventure abroad. My life is just full of blessings! It is equally exciting that I will get to share it with my love. We're going to have great memories that will last a lifetime.
I am just now rounding out the rest of my preparation. I see Adam tonight to discuss last minute logistics. I bought a daypack, travel toiletries and a watch yesterday at Volde-mart. Now I just need to do laundry and sit tight. I can work on my itinerary some more and there are few things I've been meaning to look up...I can't remember what they are right now.
Oh, I just remembered...belly dancing, of course. A nice, random person from Tribe offered to help with our trip and he suggested a particular dance teacher. I doubt I will go because it is expensive and the teacher doesn't speak English. It seems like it would take a whole day too. I would really like to learn Turkish Rom, but there is a workshop in town coming up after my trip. If I am not too broke, I should try it. It would be great to take a class while I am over there, but I won't be too disappointed if I don't get to.
Anyway, six days and counting...
Tuesday, March 25, 2008
Dum, dum, dum...the countdown has begun
I leave in seven days! Yay! Yay! Yay! The list making has begun...the little details are being worked out. I am so excited!!! Not much else to say.
http://english.istanbul.com/index.aspx
http://english.istanbul.com/index.aspx
Monday, March 24, 2008
A little more than a week left!
Wow, time flies...I can't believe how soon this trip is coming up. I leave a week from tomorrow. I am thrilled. Adam finally booked our hotel for the extra two night we are staying there. This hotel was recommended in the Time Out Istanbul guide. We tried a few other places, but they were all booked. And get this: we are getting a shuttle to the airport at 3:00 am the day we depart. UGH!!!
Here's the hotel: http://www.sarnichotel.com/
None of the rooms have views, but the breakfast terrace looks really nice. That's the Blue Mosque in the background.
Adam also bought a really nice DSLR for the B-school. I think he's going to get some lovely pictures. I am going to bring my camera, which I have pretty much decided needs to be replaced. I wish I could before the trip, but no such luck. I think I am going to bring my extra lenses too.
I still have a few more things to think about before the trip. I am ok on money at this point, which feels really good. I need to buy some little items (like a money belt) before the trip and figure out which luggage to bring. I want to bring my nice rolling suitcase, but I fear it is too small for 7 days. I might ask my sister if I can borrow hers. There is also the question of what I am going to use as a daypack. I want something that is big enough so I don't have to carry a purse, but not so big that it becomes a hassle. I am planning on using luggage locks for the day pack.
Adam leaves for Rotterdam in a few days, which means we only have a couple more days to prepare together. I think he's a little stressed about getting everything together in time. I would be too.
There is also the question of what to do with my cat. I asked my neighbor to watch him while I was out of town this past weekend and she did fine. She's a little weird though, so now she sort of acts like she owns him. Anyway, she's the easiest and she does take good care of him. So I asked to watch him while I was in Turkey and she said she may be going out of town for work. Uh-oh. I guess I could ask my sister and I think I may have already. I can't imagine boarding him. He's never been boarded and I think it would change him forever. I think this is going to be one of my longest trips away from him. He'll be fine, I just want him to be able to have a normal routine when I am gone. Anyway, I really hope my neighbor's trip doesn't go through, even though she's nutty.
Here's the hotel: http://www.sarnichotel.com/
None of the rooms have views, but the breakfast terrace looks really nice. That's the Blue Mosque in the background.
Adam also bought a really nice DSLR for the B-school. I think he's going to get some lovely pictures. I am going to bring my camera, which I have pretty much decided needs to be replaced. I wish I could before the trip, but no such luck. I think I am going to bring my extra lenses too.
I still have a few more things to think about before the trip. I am ok on money at this point, which feels really good. I need to buy some little items (like a money belt) before the trip and figure out which luggage to bring. I want to bring my nice rolling suitcase, but I fear it is too small for 7 days. I might ask my sister if I can borrow hers. There is also the question of what I am going to use as a daypack. I want something that is big enough so I don't have to carry a purse, but not so big that it becomes a hassle. I am planning on using luggage locks for the day pack.
Adam leaves for Rotterdam in a few days, which means we only have a couple more days to prepare together. I think he's a little stressed about getting everything together in time. I would be too.
There is also the question of what to do with my cat. I asked my neighbor to watch him while I was out of town this past weekend and she did fine. She's a little weird though, so now she sort of acts like she owns him. Anyway, she's the easiest and she does take good care of him. So I asked to watch him while I was in Turkey and she said she may be going out of town for work. Uh-oh. I guess I could ask my sister and I think I may have already. I can't imagine boarding him. He's never been boarded and I think it would change him forever. I think this is going to be one of my longest trips away from him. He'll be fine, I just want him to be able to have a normal routine when I am gone. Anyway, I really hope my neighbor's trip doesn't go through, even though she's nutty.
Tuesday, March 11, 2008
Time out, Istanbul
I got my last travel book yesterday, entitled "Time out Instabul." It had the highest ratings on Amazon, so I thought that would be good. I do like Rick Steves' better so far though. This one has advertisements in it...I paid for a book with ads. Seriously.
Anyway, it has a lot of great information about cultural activities. It is concise and each section is seperated by neighborhood. I think this will be useful to carry around with me while walking. It's slick and full color.
The Arts & Entertainment section looks great. While it doesn't rate attractions like Rick Steves' it offers many more choices. They have a nice night life section, including the places to go to see belly dancers. And get this, I am flipping through the book and who do I see? The dude from that German film Crossing the Bridge! Ha ha. He's on a boat, playing the bass, with hair whipping through is long goatee. Gross!
Oh and I just found out that there are factory 'outlets' where you can buy European and American clothing for cheap. Drool. Basically they are large markets that sell rejects from H&M and Miss Sixty and such. The labels have been ripped off, but you can buy a pair of jeans for about 40 YTL ($32). I have to go to this!
Adam and I are still working out details on our trip. We have plans to do this more on Wednesday. He's going to check with the hotel on a few things and we're going to figure out our transportation options. According to the hotel's Web site, they have shuttles that run to the two major tourists parts of town. It would be great if I could just take one of those every day. Hopefully I could get picked up again too. That would be awesome!
Anyway, so my books are proving useful thus far. I read the Rick Steves' one about twice a day and I plan to flip throught this new one more at lunch. The only one that hasn't been useful is the first one I bought with the flip out maps. We'll see if that comes in handy once I get there.
Anyway, it has a lot of great information about cultural activities. It is concise and each section is seperated by neighborhood. I think this will be useful to carry around with me while walking. It's slick and full color.
The Arts & Entertainment section looks great. While it doesn't rate attractions like Rick Steves' it offers many more choices. They have a nice night life section, including the places to go to see belly dancers. And get this, I am flipping through the book and who do I see? The dude from that German film Crossing the Bridge! Ha ha. He's on a boat, playing the bass, with hair whipping through is long goatee. Gross!
Oh and I just found out that there are factory 'outlets' where you can buy European and American clothing for cheap. Drool. Basically they are large markets that sell rejects from H&M and Miss Sixty and such. The labels have been ripped off, but you can buy a pair of jeans for about 40 YTL ($32). I have to go to this!
Adam and I are still working out details on our trip. We have plans to do this more on Wednesday. He's going to check with the hotel on a few things and we're going to figure out our transportation options. According to the hotel's Web site, they have shuttles that run to the two major tourists parts of town. It would be great if I could just take one of those every day. Hopefully I could get picked up again too. That would be awesome!
Anyway, so my books are proving useful thus far. I read the Rick Steves' one about twice a day and I plan to flip throught this new one more at lunch. The only one that hasn't been useful is the first one I bought with the flip out maps. We'll see if that comes in handy once I get there.
Monday, March 10, 2008
Making a list and checking it twice...
One of the things that can be the most fun, yet the most challenging part of travel are the gifts for others. It's like Christmas shopping only compacted into one week. I am feeling a litte overwhelmed by the prospect of picking up a little something here and there for friends and family.
Here's the list:
Parents (mind you I have four)
Siblings (another four)
Friends (just a little something-for about 6-8 people)
Belly dance friends (you get your own category as my shopping for you is different another 6 or so)
Adam (even though he'll be there he gets something too)
Friends at work (about another four)
And the grand total is ~27 little gifts for those I love.
Any requests??? Valerie has already asked for jewelry. :) Which I love to buy and I will be going to the gold market. Erika has asked for a shawl. I'll have to get the proper name for it soon. Just let me know, and if you're sweet to me you might get a little something!
Love,
Andalee
Here's the list:
Parents (mind you I have four)
Siblings (another four)
Friends (just a little something-for about 6-8 people)
Belly dance friends (you get your own category as my shopping for you is different another 6 or so)
Adam (even though he'll be there he gets something too)
Friends at work (about another four)
And the grand total is ~27 little gifts for those I love.
Any requests??? Valerie has already asked for jewelry. :) Which I love to buy and I will be going to the gold market. Erika has asked for a shawl. I'll have to get the proper name for it soon. Just let me know, and if you're sweet to me you might get a little something!
Love,
Andalee
Thursday, March 6, 2008
Less than a month left!
Wow! I can't believe how fast this trip is coming up! I don't feel ready. I should relax and take it easy on myself. I mean, it's not like I have to have every second planned.
I am a little disappointed that I won't be able to buy any nice costumes. That is a bummer. My last post was all about the costume designers and now I just have to go look. I have offered to buy nice costumes for my friends if they give me the money up front, plus a little extra (let's call it commission) for lugging it around and such. I hope that works out, because I would love to do shopping even though it wouldn't be for me.
At the very least, I will buy a cheap bra and belt set from the Grand Bazaar. I will probably also buy some hip scarves for myself and students/friends. Let's see what else? Shopping, shopping, shopping...That's about all I can think about...except for the Bath. I had the wildest dream about the hamam the other night. I can't even explain it, but let me tell you it got me excited.
Adam and I took a cold, hard look at my money situation last night. So far I have a little less than $500 saved for the trip. That was supposed to go to my plane ticket, but it looks like it will have to be my spending money. I can pay for the plane ticket after I return. I need money to eat! I plan on getting a little more money here and there, but we'll see.
I just received Rick Steves' Istanbul today. It says that you should plan on $100 per day for room and board, which includes $ for lunch and dinner, and assumes breakfast is included. Since I won't be paying for a room, I can assume $50 a day. Then I have to figure in entertainment to be about $7 per sight and a total of $20 per day for all that. So, I am up to $70 a day now, plus shopping and transportation. I think that sounds reasonable--although it looks like I will need to save a little more money... Any benefactors out there? ;) JK
I pray I can manage. I also pray that I have fun adventures out on my own. Adam will be working for a lot of it, which only gives us a couple of days together. I get sad when I think about it. I want him to experience it with me! I mean I know he doesn't want to do the belly dance shopping or the Bath, so I can do that with no guilt for sure. But for all of the other stuff, I want him to be with me. Although, Adam will get to go an excursion that I will miss because it is before I arrive. So at least he'll get to see some of the other sites.
We really need to get together and plan out those days we can be together. He'll have to tell me exactly where he wants to go and I will do all of the other stuff alone. Say he picks the cruise (hoping) and the Topkapi Palace, or other places like that. I would wait for him and we could go together. We still need to decide if we are going to change hotel rooms. I am leaning toward yes, but I am not sure if it is worth it.
For those days that Adam is working, I'll have to figure out how to get to the city-center by myself. After about 4 days of that I will have it down and so if we changed rooms, I would be back to square one. But it would be cool to have a place that is walking distance to points of interest. It would also be cool to travel outside the city to see other places and the countryside, but I don't know if that is possible. Probably not.
Anyway, as you can see there is much to be done. Now it's time to layout all of the details and groundwork. Hopefully we'll get to figure it out this weekend.
I am a little disappointed that I won't be able to buy any nice costumes. That is a bummer. My last post was all about the costume designers and now I just have to go look. I have offered to buy nice costumes for my friends if they give me the money up front, plus a little extra (let's call it commission) for lugging it around and such. I hope that works out, because I would love to do shopping even though it wouldn't be for me.
At the very least, I will buy a cheap bra and belt set from the Grand Bazaar. I will probably also buy some hip scarves for myself and students/friends. Let's see what else? Shopping, shopping, shopping...That's about all I can think about...except for the Bath. I had the wildest dream about the hamam the other night. I can't even explain it, but let me tell you it got me excited.
Adam and I took a cold, hard look at my money situation last night. So far I have a little less than $500 saved for the trip. That was supposed to go to my plane ticket, but it looks like it will have to be my spending money. I can pay for the plane ticket after I return. I need money to eat! I plan on getting a little more money here and there, but we'll see.
I just received Rick Steves' Istanbul today. It says that you should plan on $100 per day for room and board, which includes $ for lunch and dinner, and assumes breakfast is included. Since I won't be paying for a room, I can assume $50 a day. Then I have to figure in entertainment to be about $7 per sight and a total of $20 per day for all that. So, I am up to $70 a day now, plus shopping and transportation. I think that sounds reasonable--although it looks like I will need to save a little more money... Any benefactors out there? ;) JKI pray I can manage. I also pray that I have fun adventures out on my own. Adam will be working for a lot of it, which only gives us a couple of days together. I get sad when I think about it. I want him to experience it with me! I mean I know he doesn't want to do the belly dance shopping or the Bath, so I can do that with no guilt for sure. But for all of the other stuff, I want him to be with me. Although, Adam will get to go an excursion that I will miss because it is before I arrive. So at least he'll get to see some of the other sites.
We really need to get together and plan out those days we can be together. He'll have to tell me exactly where he wants to go and I will do all of the other stuff alone. Say he picks the cruise (hoping) and the Topkapi Palace, or other places like that. I would wait for him and we could go together. We still need to decide if we are going to change hotel rooms. I am leaning toward yes, but I am not sure if it is worth it.
For those days that Adam is working, I'll have to figure out how to get to the city-center by myself. After about 4 days of that I will have it down and so if we changed rooms, I would be back to square one. But it would be cool to have a place that is walking distance to points of interest. It would also be cool to travel outside the city to see other places and the countryside, but I don't know if that is possible. Probably not.
Anyway, as you can see there is much to be done. Now it's time to layout all of the details and groundwork. Hopefully we'll get to figure it out this weekend.
Thursday, February 28, 2008
Oh, I can't wait to go shopping!
The shopping bug has hit me! I am so excited about shopping in Istanbul, especially when it comes to costumes and belly dance attire. I found this awesome Web site today. The woman made a google map of places that you need to check out for costumes in Istanbul. It's in German, but really cool.
Größere Kartenansicht
Größere Kartenansicht
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Still on the subject of food...
Pam sent me this today. Looks wonderful. I must try a recipe soon! Adam will be my guinea pig.
http://www.turkishcookbook.com/
http://www.turkishcookbook.com/
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
Update on veggie food
From Turkishdancer on Bhuz:
"In Turkey, you can find vegeterian dishes in any restaurant, just make sure you ask if there is any meat in the vegetable dishes. It is very common that you eat dishes has no meat cold, and dishes with meat hot...we make a lot of stew type of dishes with meat. I dont eat meat myself,my favs are green beans, mix veggie stews, rice, lentil soup, yogurt soup, salads, eggplant dishes with no meat, dolma (any type).I would also visit some Palaces, and museums if you have time, and dont forget the Bosphourus ferry boat tour to the Islands. Have fun!!!and bargain!!!"
I need to look up dolma...
"In Turkey, you can find vegeterian dishes in any restaurant, just make sure you ask if there is any meat in the vegetable dishes. It is very common that you eat dishes has no meat cold, and dishes with meat hot...we make a lot of stew type of dishes with meat. I dont eat meat myself,my favs are green beans, mix veggie stews, rice, lentil soup, yogurt soup, salads, eggplant dishes with no meat, dolma (any type).I would also visit some Palaces, and museums if you have time, and dont forget the Bosphourus ferry boat tour to the Islands. Have fun!!!and bargain!!!"
I need to look up dolma...
Monday, February 25, 2008
Crossing the bridge: The sound of Istanbul
So Adam and I watched the cheesiest movie about the music of Istanbul. I decided to fill my Netflix queue with travel videos and this little gem made it first.First of all, I wanted to see some belly dancers. I mean there's one on the cover and I can hardly think of Turkish music without thinking belly dance. No luck.
So this film is a documentary about a German rocker dude who becomes obsessed with Turkish music. He is hilarious, but not on purpose. He has this long goatee, he smokes like a fiend, has nasty teeth and best of all, wears super-tight tank tops.
He goes to different music venues searching for all of the genres. He highlights rock, hip-hop, Romany, Kurdish and many other forms of music. There are some great scenes.
What struck me the most was just how big Istanbul really is. I guess I didn't take time to fully understand the immensity of the city. I mean I knew it was large, and I've been to huge cities before. Heck, I even studied the google map a few times. But seeing it on the big screen (Adam's 42 inch HDTV) gave me a new perspective. New pictures for my mind to run through when I day dream of my trip.
Then, I felt bad for cheating. Yes, it felt like cheating to see so much of a city on TV that you are planning to explore in real life. I mean if I keep watching these DVDs will it ruin my trip? Will it give away Istanbul's secrets? It's good to be prepared, but with out spoiling it.
I also bought my first travel book last weekend. It really cool because they break the city into five sections and each section is a map marked with points of interest. It's lightweight and compact. It's called the Knopf Mapguides to Istanbul: The city in section-by-section maps. My only concern is that it was published in 2003. Kinda old for a travel guide.
I still want to get another travel guide with more meat. I almost bought two today. I thought maybe that was too much. Perhaps another spoiler. I think I'll go with Rick Steves. He's always the best. I've heard nothing but good review about that one. There is also the Time Out Guide to Istanbul, which also has the highest ratings. Maybe I will get both. I mean what's another $30?
Pamukkale: Cotton Castle
Adam found this today. I hope we can try to go on one of his days off. He only has a couple. Ah, it looks so awesome. It seems pretty far from Istanbul, due south. "Pamukkale is one of the most extraordinary natural wonders in Turkey. Deriving from springs in a cliff almost 200m high overlooking the plain, calcite-laden waters have created at Pamukkale (Cotton Palace) an unreal landscape, made up of mineral forests, petrified waterfalls and a series of terraced basins. At the end of the 2nd century B.C. the dynasty of the Attalids, the kings of Pergamon, established the thermal spa of Hierapolis. The ruins of the baths, temples and other Greek monuments can be seen at the site."http://www.swisseduc.ch/stromboli/perm/turkey/pamukkale-en.html
Thursday, February 21, 2008
Found some cool stuff
I might be able to take some dance classes. Woo hoo! Although it is sooo pricey. A dance class cost $65 Euro which is $95! Here is the link: http://www.bazaarturkey.com/tours/Belly_dance_lesson.html
Here is another cool Web site although the owner is in some dire need of Web site design classes: http://www.turkumusic.com/travel.htm
Here is a cool tip:
"We are loving the akbil thing! Akbil is a little metal button on a tab that fits well on a key chain. It's a pass that you can load up which gets you into all the public transport- bus, ferry, tram, tunel, etc. You get a 10% discount over tokens as well as not having to spend the time in the ticket lines. You pay 6 lira for the thing, then load it up at machines or ticket windows. Keep your receipt when you buy it, because it's only a deposit, which you can get back when you leave Istanbul. We only have one and we scan it twice to get us both in. It will also get you some transfers free. It does not work in Ankara, or outside Istanbul."
I also am getting a travel video via Netflix today. I hope Adam and I can watch it this weekend. I'll post a review. Oh and we need to get to the bookstore to get our travel books!
Here is another cool Web site although the owner is in some dire need of Web site design classes: http://www.turkumusic.com/travel.htm
Here is a cool tip:
"We are loving the akbil thing! Akbil is a little metal button on a tab that fits well on a key chain. It's a pass that you can load up which gets you into all the public transport- bus, ferry, tram, tunel, etc. You get a 10% discount over tokens as well as not having to spend the time in the ticket lines. You pay 6 lira for the thing, then load it up at machines or ticket windows. Keep your receipt when you buy it, because it's only a deposit, which you can get back when you leave Istanbul. We only have one and we scan it twice to get us both in. It will also get you some transfers free. It does not work in Ankara, or outside Istanbul."
I also am getting a travel video via Netflix today. I hope Adam and I can watch it this weekend. I'll post a review. Oh and we need to get to the bookstore to get our travel books!
Vegetarian food
I am nervous about whether or not the don't ask don't tell policy will go into full affect in Turkey regarding my vegetarianism. I am a strict vegetarian. I eat no flesh, but I do eat eggs and dairy. What will I eat? Will I have to eat at least a little seafood or chicken to get by? Ew.
When I travel on a budget, I usually eat only one meal out. Breakfast and lunch consists of something from the grocery store or market. I am perfectly happy going to a park and eating a picinic of bread and cheese, fruit and water. Hopefully I can do this in Istanbul.
I decided to do some research on the subject. Here's what I found:
Badehane (Bade's House) in the Beyoglu area
Bade runs her restaurant the same way as she runs her house: it's always open, everyone is welcome and there's always divine food on the table. Dine on sumptuous grilled eggplant stuffed with vegetables, soya meat and garlic, delicious fried vegetable patties and a delectable selection of mushroom and chicken dishes; the crispy summer salads are excellent and the chef's special (for either lunch or dinner) is also recommended. A further range of rather adventurous, exotic culinary experiments also grace the crockery. Try to visit on a Sunday when a guest chef cooks specials for a full house. This is a cheap and cheerful place to eat.
Parsifal also in the Beyoglu area
Parsifal has been keeping Istanbul's bourgeoisie well fed for the last three years with such delicacies as leek and soya burgers, spinach pie and broccoli au gratin. Helped along with a little French influence in the decor and design, this place is very popular with the locals. It fills up quickly most nights, although you'll rarely need to make a reservation. However, if you have to wait a few minutes for a table then it must be good, right? Try the mushroom soup and check the blackboard for the daily special. The best dessert in the house is Banana Crêpes.
Nature and Peace also in the Beyoglu area
Bunches of dried herbs and vegetables dotted around the walls make this long oblong room reminiscent of a warm and cozy country kitchen. Make sure you check out the blackboard specials before looking at the menu as it's often cheaper to order the daily special - consisting of soup, salad and a main meal - than to order everything separately. Green lentil patties, the NP house salad, and falafel should all be on the hit list of things to try. The cheesecake is definitely the best you'll find in Istanbul, and the pumpkin pie is also good in season.
Hercai in Kadikoy area
Hercai occupies the whole of a gorgeous nineteenth-century three-storey house. Admire original cinema posters from socially conscious films of the past (such as Land and Freedom by Ken Loach, Before the Rain, Children of the Revolution and Protest) while you munch on delicious Imambayildi (literally meaning 'the imam loved it') - a dish made from aubergines cooked gently in olive oil and served cold. The Manti (Turkish ravioli) and spinach quiche are good here too. This place is good value for money, with great service and a peaceful atmosphere - you won't regret your forage into the delightful back streets of Kadiköy!
La Calle in Beyoglu area
Tucked away in the cobbled backstreets of bohemian Tünel, this tiny restaurant is run by the fun young crowd for the fun young crowd. It is located in an area teeming with eccentric local artists and wannabe intellectuals, and is popular for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Tiny red tables are set up outside in the street during the summer. The menu changes regularly. Perusing it you will find a few well-prepared vegetarian dishes freshly made each day. There are also vegetable soups, cold and hot vegetable starters and mains and divine hot chocolate brownieS for dessert. The emphasis here is on fresh and nutritious food.
---I found these on Yahoo! Travel. I didn't realize Yahoo! has such a good travel site. I was able to create a "trip" called Istanbul so that I can add these restaurants to it. I found them by searching for "vegetarian restaurants Istanbul." I love the Web.
My concern with the five restaurants above is that they are probably not authentic Turkish. Most likely more that fancy fusion stuff for upper class. Of course price is an issue too. I don't know how recent the information is, but it looks like Hercai and La Calle are the cheapest.
I still need to do more research on buying food in markets and at stores. More to come on food! I am hungry...off to lunch!
When I travel on a budget, I usually eat only one meal out. Breakfast and lunch consists of something from the grocery store or market. I am perfectly happy going to a park and eating a picinic of bread and cheese, fruit and water. Hopefully I can do this in Istanbul.
I decided to do some research on the subject. Here's what I found:
Badehane (Bade's House) in the Beyoglu area
Bade runs her restaurant the same way as she runs her house: it's always open, everyone is welcome and there's always divine food on the table. Dine on sumptuous grilled eggplant stuffed with vegetables, soya meat and garlic, delicious fried vegetable patties and a delectable selection of mushroom and chicken dishes; the crispy summer salads are excellent and the chef's special (for either lunch or dinner) is also recommended. A further range of rather adventurous, exotic culinary experiments also grace the crockery. Try to visit on a Sunday when a guest chef cooks specials for a full house. This is a cheap and cheerful place to eat.
Parsifal also in the Beyoglu area
Parsifal has been keeping Istanbul's bourgeoisie well fed for the last three years with such delicacies as leek and soya burgers, spinach pie and broccoli au gratin. Helped along with a little French influence in the decor and design, this place is very popular with the locals. It fills up quickly most nights, although you'll rarely need to make a reservation. However, if you have to wait a few minutes for a table then it must be good, right? Try the mushroom soup and check the blackboard for the daily special. The best dessert in the house is Banana Crêpes.
Nature and Peace also in the Beyoglu area
Bunches of dried herbs and vegetables dotted around the walls make this long oblong room reminiscent of a warm and cozy country kitchen. Make sure you check out the blackboard specials before looking at the menu as it's often cheaper to order the daily special - consisting of soup, salad and a main meal - than to order everything separately. Green lentil patties, the NP house salad, and falafel should all be on the hit list of things to try. The cheesecake is definitely the best you'll find in Istanbul, and the pumpkin pie is also good in season.
Hercai in Kadikoy area
Hercai occupies the whole of a gorgeous nineteenth-century three-storey house. Admire original cinema posters from socially conscious films of the past (such as Land and Freedom by Ken Loach, Before the Rain, Children of the Revolution and Protest) while you munch on delicious Imambayildi (literally meaning 'the imam loved it') - a dish made from aubergines cooked gently in olive oil and served cold. The Manti (Turkish ravioli) and spinach quiche are good here too. This place is good value for money, with great service and a peaceful atmosphere - you won't regret your forage into the delightful back streets of Kadiköy!
La Calle in Beyoglu area
Tucked away in the cobbled backstreets of bohemian Tünel, this tiny restaurant is run by the fun young crowd for the fun young crowd. It is located in an area teeming with eccentric local artists and wannabe intellectuals, and is popular for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Tiny red tables are set up outside in the street during the summer. The menu changes regularly. Perusing it you will find a few well-prepared vegetarian dishes freshly made each day. There are also vegetable soups, cold and hot vegetable starters and mains and divine hot chocolate brownieS for dessert. The emphasis here is on fresh and nutritious food.
---I found these on Yahoo! Travel. I didn't realize Yahoo! has such a good travel site. I was able to create a "trip" called Istanbul so that I can add these restaurants to it. I found them by searching for "vegetarian restaurants Istanbul." I love the Web.
My concern with the five restaurants above is that they are probably not authentic Turkish. Most likely more that fancy fusion stuff for upper class. Of course price is an issue too. I don't know how recent the information is, but it looks like Hercai and La Calle are the cheapest.
I still need to do more research on buying food in markets and at stores. More to come on food! I am hungry...off to lunch!
Friday, February 15, 2008
Lunch with a friend and lots of notes
Today I had lunch with a friend of mine who went to Istanbul a couple of months ago. She is also a belly dancer, so she had some really great tips.
Here are the most important things I learned:
1) Get a driver from the hotel to pick you up at the airport. Taxi drivers suck and they will rip you off. They probably won't even know where the hotel is. Taxi rates also double at night. She said that taxi drivers don't know where places are, but they know landmarks and neighborhoods. They will drop you off in the general area.
2) It's expensive. Most people use Euro, which sucks for me because the Turkish Lira has a better exchange rate. Bring a calculator.
3) MUST GO to the Turkish bath, Cemberlitas Bath.
4) Write down the name of where you are going on a card and ask people for help. If they don't speak English, they'll recognize the name and point you in the right direction. You may have to do this several times before you find where you are going. Most importantly, carry around your hotel's card and memorize the closests/biggest landmark.
5) Go to Istiklal Caddessi for modern food, shopping and costume makers. Probably my best bet for vegetarian food.
6) Beware of pick pockets and wear a money belt. The trains and subway are crammed and people will try to scam you. On the plus side, public transportation is clean.
7) Outside of the Grand Bazaar is an area to buy beads and semi-precious stones. Must keep in mind for my jewelry. Also, if I want to buy precious metal I need to know the daily rate and make sure they weigh it.
8) The belly dance shows are good, but expensive and often with mediocre dancing and bad food. She said they all serve the same meal. She also said that the dancers all do raqs sharqi instead of Turkish-style. She suggested getting the hotel to book, so you don't get ripped off. GAR and Caravanserai seem like the best bets.
9) Go to the Aratsu Market. Not very well-known.
10) Of course, the Blue Mosque and some palace that I forgot to write the name of.
Anyway, I'm sure I will find out more from my lovely resource. She's going to send me cards of places to go, as well as help me figure out the public transportation system. She'll go over the map with me and mark the places I need to get off at. :)
I am bummed that things will be more expensive over there. I was hoping that I could use Lira which is less valuable than the dollar. That way I would get everything at about 20 percent off. But if I have to use Euro then that makes everything TWICE as expensive. I really need to brainstorm more ways to come up with money for the trip.
It looks like buying a nice costume is out of the question as they will run $550 and above. Although she also says they are worth it and much better than Egyptian costumes. I just bought a brand-new costume and I can't really justify buying another one.
It also sounds like people are very nice, yet willing to scam you or get their "commission." I must practice my bargaining and my stern look. Being from the south, that might be hard. Oh well, we'll see how it goes. I am still very excited!!!
Photos by Audra Evans. Used with permission.
Here are the most important things I learned:
1) Get a driver from the hotel to pick you up at the airport. Taxi drivers suck and they will rip you off. They probably won't even know where the hotel is. Taxi rates also double at night. She said that taxi drivers don't know where places are, but they know landmarks and neighborhoods. They will drop you off in the general area.
2) It's expensive. Most people use Euro, which sucks for me because the Turkish Lira has a better exchange rate. Bring a calculator.
3) MUST GO to the Turkish bath, Cemberlitas Bath.
4) Write down the name of where you are going on a card and ask people for help. If they don't speak English, they'll recognize the name and point you in the right direction. You may have to do this several times before you find where you are going. Most importantly, carry around your hotel's card and memorize the closests/biggest landmark.
5) Go to Istiklal Caddessi for modern food, shopping and costume makers. Probably my best bet for vegetarian food.
6) Beware of pick pockets and wear a money belt. The trains and subway are crammed and people will try to scam you. On the plus side, public transportation is clean.
7) Outside of the Grand Bazaar is an area to buy beads and semi-precious stones. Must keep in mind for my jewelry. Also, if I want to buy precious metal I need to know the daily rate and make sure they weigh it.
8) The belly dance shows are good, but expensive and often with mediocre dancing and bad food. She said they all serve the same meal. She also said that the dancers all do raqs sharqi instead of Turkish-style. She suggested getting the hotel to book, so you don't get ripped off. GAR and Caravanserai seem like the best bets.
9) Go to the Aratsu Market. Not very well-known.
10) Of course, the Blue Mosque and some palace that I forgot to write the name of.
Anyway, I'm sure I will find out more from my lovely resource. She's going to send me cards of places to go, as well as help me figure out the public transportation system. She'll go over the map with me and mark the places I need to get off at. :)
I am bummed that things will be more expensive over there. I was hoping that I could use Lira which is less valuable than the dollar. That way I would get everything at about 20 percent off. But if I have to use Euro then that makes everything TWICE as expensive. I really need to brainstorm more ways to come up with money for the trip.
It looks like buying a nice costume is out of the question as they will run $550 and above. Although she also says they are worth it and much better than Egyptian costumes. I just bought a brand-new costume and I can't really justify buying another one.It also sounds like people are very nice, yet willing to scam you or get their "commission." I must practice my bargaining and my stern look. Being from the south, that might be hard. Oh well, we'll see how it goes. I am still very excited!!!
Photos by Audra Evans. Used with permission.
Thursday, February 14, 2008
I could stare at maps all day
The continent of Europe is on the left and the continent of Asia is on the right. I'll be on European soil during my trip...But the real question is: Is Turkey in the middle east? Discuss
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View Larger Map
Wednesday, February 13, 2008
Thanks to Amira from Bhuz for this one
"Sulthanamet is the oldest and the most historical part of town (but not the fanciest) and is best suited for visiting during the day. It gets dark at approx 18hr30 and shops close around 19hr00. At night it is a good idea to eat and go out in the Ortakoy, Bebek, Taxim and Beyoglu, Kumpapi areas.
However there is a great and famous Kebab restaurant in Eminonu called: Hamdi Restaurant. Very Turkish and try to make a reservation at the top floor as they have a glass roof and you can look over the old city and the bosporus.
Easiest to use taxi's at night. Make sure the taxi driver switches on the taximeter unless you are happy to fix a price and bargain about the price some don't bargain and just say: taximeter. In that case I recommend putting the map of Istanbul on your lap, to pretend you know where your are going. Like this the driver should be less tempted to take you around the block once too many.
On Sunday go to Ortakoy for the Sunday market with lots of silver jewellery, scarves, silks, bags and art.
Uptown you will find the Istiklal Caddesi in Beyoglu and to Taxim square if you want to do some serious shopping. Good for some lovely lunch spots as well. A lot of Embassy's and Consulates are on Istiklal Caddesi (hope you will not need it). Shops in this area stay open until 21hr00. If you can not get enough of the shops, you can go on to the Ak Merkez and MetroCity malls, they stay open until 22hr00.
MUST GO is İstinye Park Alışveriş Merkezi - Istyine Park Shopping mall - Istinye Park shopping mall is a unique urban lifestyle environment situated on a natural topographical “amphitheater” of residential neighborhoods. Above, a grand circular arrival plaza sits between an open-air lifestyle center and a glass-roofed indoor retail area. With 300 shops and constructed at an expense of $250 million. The new shopping mall offers famous brands like Dolce & Gabbana, Dior, Prada, and Fendi to the Turkish consumer domestically for the first time.
Other shopping malls: METROCITY, Kanyon Levent, Cevahir Alışveriş Merkezi, Akmerkez
To get a good impression of the city is a Bosporus cruise, please refer to Turkey Travel Planner for all the different possibilities.
If you would like to go to a hammam, you can try
- Çemberlitas Hamami
http://www.cemberlitashamami.com/
Vezirhan Caddesi 8
+90 212 522 7974
open from 6hr00 - 00hr00
€ 15 all in for 1,5 hr
- Tarihi Galatasaray Hamami
Turnacibasi Sokak 24
+90 212 252 4242
As you will read anywhere, Istanbul is THE place where "east meets west", so you will find lots of traditional Turkish restaurants and cafés but also many hip & trendy places (restaurants, bars & clubs), many with great views of the Bosporus.
* Leb-i derya (a hip restaurant with a terrace on two levels which is covered this time of year, great views over the city, also a good idea for lunch)
* Anjelique and Vogue, both restaurants of the Istanbul Doors Group.
* Kizkulesi (restaurant on a tiny island in the Bosporus)
* Safran (modern turkish)
*Gulluoglu in KARAKOY - BEST BOREK AND BAKLAVA IN ISTANBUL SINCE 1949 (only Turks know this address)
*SET BALIK LOKANTASI (famous for fish and very very nice)
*Pera Palas
'Created by the people who founded the Orient Express, who could not find a suitable hotel for their guests once they arrived at the end of their journey. Frequented by Agatha Christie who, during her stay here, wrote "Murder on the Orient Express", Great Garbo and Mata Hari, and more than once Atatürk himself. It's worth having a coffee at the patisserie or a drink at the bar to take in the hotel's atmosphere.'
*Orient House and Kervansaray (for an evening of traditional Turkish food and entertainment, complete with music, bellydancers and all the expected folklore) "
However there is a great and famous Kebab restaurant in Eminonu called: Hamdi Restaurant. Very Turkish and try to make a reservation at the top floor as they have a glass roof and you can look over the old city and the bosporus.
Easiest to use taxi's at night. Make sure the taxi driver switches on the taximeter unless you are happy to fix a price and bargain about the price some don't bargain and just say: taximeter. In that case I recommend putting the map of Istanbul on your lap, to pretend you know where your are going. Like this the driver should be less tempted to take you around the block once too many.
On Sunday go to Ortakoy for the Sunday market with lots of silver jewellery, scarves, silks, bags and art.
Uptown you will find the Istiklal Caddesi in Beyoglu and to Taxim square if you want to do some serious shopping. Good for some lovely lunch spots as well. A lot of Embassy's and Consulates are on Istiklal Caddesi (hope you will not need it). Shops in this area stay open until 21hr00. If you can not get enough of the shops, you can go on to the Ak Merkez and MetroCity malls, they stay open until 22hr00.
MUST GO is İstinye Park Alışveriş Merkezi - Istyine Park Shopping mall - Istinye Park shopping mall is a unique urban lifestyle environment situated on a natural topographical “amphitheater” of residential neighborhoods. Above, a grand circular arrival plaza sits between an open-air lifestyle center and a glass-roofed indoor retail area. With 300 shops and constructed at an expense of $250 million. The new shopping mall offers famous brands like Dolce & Gabbana, Dior, Prada, and Fendi to the Turkish consumer domestically for the first time.
Other shopping malls: METROCITY, Kanyon Levent, Cevahir Alışveriş Merkezi, Akmerkez
To get a good impression of the city is a Bosporus cruise, please refer to Turkey Travel Planner for all the different possibilities.
If you would like to go to a hammam, you can try
- Çemberlitas Hamami
http://www.cemberlitashamami.com/
Vezirhan Caddesi 8
+90 212 522 7974
open from 6hr00 - 00hr00
€ 15 all in for 1,5 hr
- Tarihi Galatasaray Hamami
Turnacibasi Sokak 24
+90 212 252 4242
As you will read anywhere, Istanbul is THE place where "east meets west", so you will find lots of traditional Turkish restaurants and cafés but also many hip & trendy places (restaurants, bars & clubs), many with great views of the Bosporus.
* Leb-i derya (a hip restaurant with a terrace on two levels which is covered this time of year, great views over the city, also a good idea for lunch)
* Anjelique and Vogue, both restaurants of the Istanbul Doors Group.
* Kizkulesi (restaurant on a tiny island in the Bosporus)
* Safran (modern turkish)
*Gulluoglu in KARAKOY - BEST BOREK AND BAKLAVA IN ISTANBUL SINCE 1949 (only Turks know this address)
*SET BALIK LOKANTASI (famous for fish and very very nice)
*Pera Palas
'Created by the people who founded the Orient Express, who could not find a suitable hotel for their guests once they arrived at the end of their journey. Frequented by Agatha Christie who, during her stay here, wrote "Murder on the Orient Express", Great Garbo and Mata Hari, and more than once Atatürk himself. It's worth having a coffee at the patisserie or a drink at the bar to take in the hotel's atmosphere.'
*Orient House and Kervansaray (for an evening of traditional Turkish food and entertainment, complete with music, bellydancers and all the expected folklore) "
The planning stage
Hello folks,
I'm starting this blog to prepare for my trip to Istanbul, Turkey. Here I'll post tips, information and ramblings about how excited I am. Once I am over there I hope to update often with pictures, factoids, and adventures. And after the trip is over, who knows what this blog will become, but who cares?
Here are the basics:
I leave on Tuesday, April 1 and return on Tuesday, April 8. A full week!
I am not flying with A, but I am going to meet him there.
I can't wait!
I'm starting this blog to prepare for my trip to Istanbul, Turkey. Here I'll post tips, information and ramblings about how excited I am. Once I am over there I hope to update often with pictures, factoids, and adventures. And after the trip is over, who knows what this blog will become, but who cares?
Here are the basics:
I leave on Tuesday, April 1 and return on Tuesday, April 8. A full week!
I am not flying with A, but I am going to meet him there.
I can't wait!
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